True to form, Demna Gvasalia’s Fall 2016 Vetements show was an infraction of just about every fashion law. To start, he staged the show at the American Cathedral of the Holy Trinity in Paris, parading looks down a makeshift aisle fenced in by inward-facing church pews. Gvasalia’s barrage of sinfully egregious offerings – many of which included derogatory missives, such as “You fuck’n asshole” – might have seemed blasphemous to attendees of a regular Sunday church session, but this was no ordinary evening.

Kanye West was spotted in the front row, and was perhaps afforded the best look at Vetements’ mixed bag of idiosyncratic silhouettes. Uniforms of all types – from classic Catholic school looks to sweatsuits – were reappropriated into all-new takes, often far removed from their conventional counterparts. Justin Bieber references aside, perhaps the most exciting news this season is the official addition of men’s pieces to the primarily female-focused collection.

With Gvasalia set to debut his first collection for Balenciaga this Sunday, it’ll be interesting to see how his creative liberties come into play with a couture label.

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