Powered by Cheez-It ®, Pulse Check is a series that dives into the rich history and enduring impact of basketball. In the second of five installments, we’ll examine the origins of the game's most quintessential artifact: sneakers.

Across trends—fleeting and sustained—few phenomena have rivaled the sweeping craze centered around basketball sneakers. Multi-faceted and ageless, this particular genre of footwear isn’t just a part of popular culture; it is popular culture. Always en vogue, court-specific kicks exist outside the conventional standards often foisted upon other clothing categories. Cultivating a completely novel community, hoop shoes remain a symbol of the sport’s abiding impact the world over.

Born out of circumstance, basketball shoes originated—like most things—as a necessity, helping to support athletes as the game evolved from its primitive state. After the sport’s invention in the early 1890s, the need for non-slip footwear became (very) apparent. Incorporating simple silhouettes made of canvas uppers and flat rubber soles—dubbed “sneakers” for how quietly they moved across the floor compared to common dress shoes—designers began a journey toward more tailored forms.

With a few tweaks here and there over the years, the most notable breakthrough in the sneaker timeline came almost 25 years after the birth of basketball. Just a couple hours up the road from the game’s birthplace in Springfield, Massachusetts, the Converse Rubber Shoe Company released its groundbreaking offering: the Non-Skid. Tagged as the first high-top shoe made specifically for basketball players, Converse swiftly took over the market, delivering a revolutionary piece of equipment to the fledgling sport. 

Shortly after the Non-Skid's debut, former semi-pro ballplayer Charles Taylor joined the Converse sales team, noting distinctive parts of the shoe’s structure that could be improved to better suit its intended athlete demographic. Following Taylor’s advice, the classic shoe manufacturer released the transcendent Chuck Taylor All-Star in 1922, ushering in the dawn of performance-minded footwear. Met with almost immediate acclaim, Chuck Taylors infiltrated every gym across the country, becoming the de facto basketball shoe donned by every level of player. 

While the inimitable chevron star logo was seen everywhere, from YMCA leagues to NBA hardwood, other big-name athletic brands started to take notice of hoops’ intriguing value. 

Making strides in America, Adidas and Puma emerged as formidable challengers for the top spot. In 1969, the iconic Three Stripes released its celebrated Superstar silhouette, initially branding it as a shoe made for hooping at the highest level. Gaining popularity among players like Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and Jerry West for its advanced grip, lightweight flexibility, and enhanced protection, the Superstar was worn by countless pros in the US after it hit the shelves. 

Adidas’ brother company, on the other hand, decided to take a different approach. Capitalizing on the effortlessly cool image of New York Knicks star Walt “Clyde” Frazier, Puma unveiled the Puma Clyde in 1973, marking the first time a basketball player received their own signature shoe line. During the construction of the sneaker, Frazier stipulated three non-negotiables: one, the shoe must include suede material; two, his name “Clyde” was to be prominently displayed on the side to consummate the partnership; and three, he needed a new colorway for every game he appeared in—which estimated to around 390 custom iterations. 

As attention for the sport and professional leagues continued to grow, more players snagged shoe deals on their way to legend status, most notably Michael Jordan. In a move that forever altered culture as we know it, His Airness joined Nike over Adidas in what would become one of the biggest brand blunders of all time. First seen on feet in 1985, the Air Jordan 1 captivated the zeitgeist like nothing had before—or really has since, for that matter. Perfectly encapsulating Jordan’s otherworldly essence—we all wanted to ‘Be Like Mike’—the emblematic sneakers seamlessly blended performance, persona, and style. As a result, this perfect marketing mixture created a one-of-a-kind series that is largely responsible for how we think about footwear in a contemporary context. 

In the decades that followed the ascension of the Jordan line, sneakers originally designated for on-court play started appearing just as frequently off the court. Embraced by musicians, celebrities, casuals, and enthusiasts, basketball shoes began to permeate areas that once felt completely unrelated. Shifting the narrative from strictly functional to undeniably fashionable, sneakers slowly turned into coveted centerpieces to build an outfit around. With the popularity of these kinds of shoes rapidly growing, the hype followed naturally. 

Thanks to limited stock releases, the rise of high-end collab culture, and general word of mouth, the demand for basketball kicks could not be quelled. By this time, specific sneaks could inspire diehard collectors to wait in lines that stretched city blocks or even camp out in front of shoe stores to have a chance at copping a pair. And with the introduction of resale apps like StockX and eBay, some specialized shoes can now easily fetch price tags of $1,000 or more—we’ve truly come a long way from Springfield. 

Following a period when we as a society might have strayed just a bit too far from the plot, the industry has since experienced a kick-game renaissance spearheaded by basketball's most exciting personalities. As the latest crop of NBA superstars cement their spot in the footwear timeline—here’s looking at you, Anthony Edwards—there’s a lot for sneakerheads to be excited about. 

More than just their utility, sneakers are an aesthetic reflection of basketball’s expansive reach across cultural lines, a symbolic reminder that ball is indeed life—or at least an undeniable part of it. 

Stay tuned for more from Pulse Check and Highsnobiety.