In Artist Uniform, a column for Highsnobiety, Chris Erik Thomas traces how personal style shapes an artist's identity.
Away from an atelier, Anthony Vaccarello is the kind of guy you might pass by on the street without a second thought. He may be the (allegedly soon-to-be-former) creative director for Saint Laurent, but away from the glitziness of the fabled fashion house, Vaccarello just looks like a guy. A regular ole Tony Vacs, if you will.
This inconspicuousness is exactly by design. “I want to stay private,” he explained in 2023. “When I get too much attention, I feel the pressure.” This rationale isn’t new to fashion, or even art; artists often fade into the background so that their work speaks for itself. But the contrast between Vaccarello’s nondescript sartorial preferences — plain pants, plain shirts, plain sneakers — and his extravagant, brazenly glamorous work at Saint Laurent has depth.
One of the most defining elements of his decade-long reign at Saint Laurent wasn’t those broad shoulders and sculptural cuts; it was the Hollywood flair he brought to the brand. Both literally and figuratively. Vaccarello’s collections took YSL in a more grandiose direction, guided by his love of movies ( and shaped by a childhood spent ingesting culture through MTV and Madonna).
The launch of Saint Laurent Productions in 2023 formalized his ties to the film industry, providing Vaccarello with an official production arm for costume design. He’s since worked on movies by David Cronenberg, Paolo Sorrentino, and other major directors — continuing Yves Saint Laurent’s own work in film, perhaps most notably in 1967’s Belle de Jour.
The aim has been to make a mark beyond blink-and-it's-over runway shows, or expensive clothes only attainable to those wealthy enough for Saint Laurent’s wares. “In 20 or 30 years, a film will still be there, and the name of Saint Laurent will still be on it,” he said last year.
In this context, his desire to stay out of the spotlight makes him feel like one of fashion’s foremost directors. Dressed like he’s part of the crew, not like an on-camera star, Vaccarello has quietly shaped a legacy that just wouldn’t be achievable without getting out of the way.
Watching Saint Laurent’s cinematic Spring/Summer 2026 collection on a live stream Tuesday night, that legacy felt fulfilled. There was the unforgettable visual of head-to-toe gold looks — illuminated by massive chandeliers hanging in midair, the Eiffel Tower glistening in the background. But then came the grand finale: Vaccarello walked the runway, surrounded by an entourage of golden models, embracing longtime friend Charlotte Gainsbourg after she crooned a song about Yves as the parade of models filtered back in.
There he was, wearing a black-on-black uniform, the maestro finally allowing himself into the spotlight.
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