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One of modern menswear's most persistent obsessions is definitely the new wave of Japanese designers. And it's not the growing hype surrounding them, nor the increasingly frustrating chase for their earlier pieces across resale that should have people paying attention to them.

Rather, it's what makes their garments desirable in the first place: how these are made, the materials used, et cetera. Of this new vanguard of apparel artisans, a favorite four of them is getting some special attention over at our friends at Mr Porter.

Rooted in an appreciation for fabric composition, actual real-life wearability, and unmistakeable yet un-abrasive aesthetics, our chosen darling brands all understand what makes good clothes truly great.

As such, this presented itself as a convenient opportunity to introduce the uninitiated to, give our nerds out there a little refresher on, and/or just enjoy an own quick little geek-out over some of the best that Tokyo fashion has to offer.

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AURALEE

However different, all of the many colors founder Ryota Iwai likes to work with for AURALEE look like they belong together. The textures and cuts of his pieces are so exquisite, it's hard to tell what exactly you're dealing with, in the best possible way: is this wool or nylon, day or evening?

His pieces are for overthinkers, insofar as how easily one can wear them with literally anything already in the closet, no fuss, for years and years.

Ssstein

Jackets are sensitive — as a topic that is, not generally. Or shouldn't be. If it's perfect, you'll want to really live in yours, almost ruin out of love and not feel guilty about it. Kiichiro Asakawa's Ssstein label makes the kind that fit that bill.

No excess, soft pigments, these items are subtle utilitarian luxury, at a price point and quality level that'd have many a European competitor gasp in shock and jealousy.

Kaptain Sunshine

Shinsuke Kojima's Kaptain Sunshine is very visibly inspired by the vintage classics we're so deeply familiar with and adore, without spilling over the edge into lazy copycat or borderline-costume territory.

This garb's relaxed, unstiff, and so chic yet not screaming at the top of its lungs to prove it.

A.Presse

With A.Presse, Kazuma Shigematsu does understated to the utmost degree.

Be it faded indigo denim, silk shirts or casual bomber blousons, there is an effortless but quietly avant-guard edge to these items that embody a distinctly Japanese taste in everyday wardrobe staples that stand the test of time sans boredom.

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