Size up Your Bags & Downsize Your Denim, Says Diesel
Diesel is going in on big on small. The Italian denim giant's Fall/Winter 2025 collection proffers small jeans and huge bags amidst a flurry of wild shapes and textures.
Creative director Glenn Martens, who's gonna be soon quite busy overseeing Maison Margiela — like Diesel, Margiela is owned by OTB Group — has long infused Diesel with the outsized whimsy he once used to shape Y/Project.
That's meant mass material experimentation and plenty of wacky statement pieces, represented here by Diesel's crossover puffer jackets and glistening leather suits done up with all kinds of faux distressing.
But Diesel is a denim-first proposition at the end of the day and you need only look to its jeans to see where its priorities lie.
And for FW25, they're remarkably small. Not in terms of volume, but in the rise. Lots of low-rise trousers proliferated the runway alongside some barely-there skirts so short that they were sewn with miniscule jorts. The messaging, apparently, is that your jeans can be of any width, so long as they're pre-faded and very not-roomy in the crotch.
These tiny jeans were partnered with giant bags so outsized that you could practically pile a half-dozen pairs of the denim pants into them with space to spare.
Lots of other oddities abounded, including hidden-placket suits that look like a streamlined Mao's uniform (complimentary) and color-blasted layering pieces completed by, er, Joker-style makeup.
This is Martens' signature stylistic indulgence at full blast and as fun as it is, it can be hard to parse. To find familiar footing, look to the jeans.
