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Mr Porter

Brand: Supreme

Season: FW20

Key Pieces: That white hoodie – plastered with bizarre and provocative depictions of sexual behavior – could ignite some interesting conversations.

Release Date: November 5 and November 7 in Japan.

Buy: Supreme

Editor’s Notes: Historically, Supreme has developed some of its strongest and most memorable collections in collaboration with renowned artists, with the FW16 collection with Japanese photographer Araki and the Andres Serrano "Blood and Semen" collection serving as a few example standouts.

Now, Supreme can add the legendary "Godfather of Japanese Erotica," Toshio Saeki, to its long list of influential, and undoubtedly controversial artistic collaborators. For FW20, Supreme is releasing a three-piece capsule of worker jackets, pants, and hoodies, developed with Saeki before his unfortunate passing at the age of 74 earlier this year.

Saeki came up in ’70s Japan in tandem with an explosion in the sex industry and political rebellion. His artworks have developed a notorious cult fanbase thanks to their wild depictions of human sexuality which touch on BDSM, Japanese folklore, gore, violence, and other elements from the psychosexual subconscious. Although there's certainly a level of humor implied in Saeki's work, there's also a very Freudian element that's equally as discomforting as it is amusing.

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All the items from this drop share the same design motif of minimal branding combined with patchwork miniatures of Saeki's eye-catching illustrations applied as if on a canvas or collage. The jackets and pants are available in blue and black, meanwhile, the hoodie is offered in faded red, olive, white, and black. The adornments appear to be stitched on with deliberately exposed threading, bestowing the collection with an artisanal appeal.

Explore the collection in more detail below.

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