This spring, the fashion world is all about love. The tennis kind of love, that is. And yes, the pleated miniskirts, cashmere sweaters, and knit polo shirts that have long dominated the sport and country clubs alike are moving again into the style mainstream—but they’re doing so differently compared to years past.
Tennis aesthetics have always been intertwined with high fashion as far back as the sport’s inception. Tennis legends, from Roger Federer and Maria Sharapova to Andre Agassi and Chris Evert—the latter coined the term “tennis bracelet” when she lost her diamond band at the US Open in 1978—were singular in their embrace of elevated, yet functional, athleticwear. And, of course, perhaps most famously, there’s Serena Williams, whose boundary-breaking court style inspired a new generation of tennis stars like Naomi Osaka and Coco Gauff. But tennis aesthetics have been adopted far beyond the tramlines of the court, and they’re showing no signs of easing up anytime soon, either…sorry tenniscore skeptics.
Tenniscore started its modern reign during the pandemic era—is there a better sport to play while social distancing?—before peaking in early 2024, due in large part to Zendaya’s Challengers era. The actor’s provocative tennis flick chronicling a love-triangle between three tennis professionals brought a new, digitally engaged audience to the sport that was once reserved for the upper echelon and country club elites. Working with her long-time stylist and “Image Architect” Law Roach, Zendaya’s tennis-themed press outfits, which included everything from green ball-print gowns to sporty skirt sets with pleats, didn’t hurt, either. The actual sport is experiencing a boom, too, as tennis’s four “Grand Slams” tournaments (the Australian Open, Roland Garros, Wimbledon, and the US Open) set numerous attendance records between 2023 and 2024. The result? More eyes are tuned into the sport than ever, whether that be via the silver screen, TikTok feeds, or courtside seats.
On the fashion side, there’s a second coming of tenniscore on the horizon in time for the US hard court swing this summer, one that’s different from the springs and summers of the past. It’s also all over the runways of Milan and Paris as top luxury brands reference the sport in subtle ways, elevating the trend beyond the courts and into the everyday. Just a few of the runway’s favorite tennis references? Pleated tennis skirts (too long to actually play tennis in) are paired with fitted white tees and ballerina shoes worn with tube socks. Sleek, court-inspired bodysuits featuring sheer paneling and subtle mesh inserts add a modern twist. And, of course, there’s no shortage of Wimbledon whites—tailored blazers, high-waisted shorts, and the like to go around. It’s a lived-in way of dressing that celebrities like Bella Hadid and Hailey Bieber are catching onto, as well.
But, don’t sweat it, no athletic ability is required to partake in the style. The look picks up on the Quiet Luxury trend—an understated, no-fuss type of dressing beloved by the likes of Kendall Jenner and Zoë Kravitz—but does so in a manner that weaves in classic athleisure elements in unexpected ways. The minimal, country club-inspired silhouette is still going strong, but the revitalized version is all about new, out-of-the-box twists on the historic sport. Think mesh shoes worn with V-neck dresses designed in technical fabrics, high-waisted, pleated bottoms accented by kitten heels and white tube socks, and branded polo shirts (popped collars, of course) paired next to a skirt too short to wear on the court.
It's a stylish way of projecting wealth and status without coming across as elitist in the slightest—as the late André Leon Talley said in 2009, “I wouldn’t come to the tennis court in a pair of shorts and a tennis shirt,” but don’t expect the same attitudes that once dominated the haughty sport to persist today. Some might struggle to win their local tournament in this new type of tenniscore dressing. But on the fashion front? These looks are destined for a straight-sets win.
