Functional Gear Isn't a Category. It's a Dressing System
You're reading Shopper: Highsnobiety's bulletin on what’s taking up headspace from the marketplace. This is an edit of November 5's newsletter, in which Shopping Editor Max Migowski decides that functional is the new casual. Subscribe here, or head to the Shopping tab for more recs.
Whatever You Do, Don't Call This Stuff Gorpcore
In Germany, we say, “There's no such thing as bad weather — only bad clothing.” This was the inspiration behind my latest investigation into winter-appropriate activewear, where I hoped to simply survey some exercise gear that works for cold temps. But in the midst of my research, I realized with a jolt that techy-looking workout clothes have long since transcended acts of keeping fit.
Even though it’s technically the season of nice sweaters and cardigans, everywhere I turned, the aesthetics, proportions, and properties of specialty sports garb and casual athleisure were unmissable. I could rest my case with, say, A$AP Rocky's Alo moment, that Matthieu Blazy shirt-over-shirt Chanel 'fit I'm obsessed with, or this pair of brilliantly climbing-esque, cargo-ish Kiko Kostadinov pants — 100% wool, 40% off. But there's more to it, of course. In fact, It seems we’ve unlocked a new level to our most modern sartorial question: Where does the workout end and the wardrobe begin?
Recently, for instance, Nike announced a formal reintroduction of its Tech line: a former “fleece franchise” turned head-to-toe apparel range that is “engineered to protect in style.” To encompass everything from outerwear to lightweight trousers, Nike Tech isn't an ACG-sibling for activity-based specialty garments, nor is it mere appropriative gorpcore-pandering. Instead, it proposes a uniform that happens to be cool-looking and functionally advanced — one because it's the other. The brand also shared news of its partnership with Swedish, LVMH-backed label Our Legacy, reportedly launching in spring 2027. In an interview with Highsnobiety, co-founder Jockum Hallin clarified this project isn't just about rethinking the customer's gym bag contents, but about implementing performance fabric and the knowledge around it into everyday luxury wares: “It's gonna look slow but feel fast.”
It’s the perfect slogan for a shift that has been gathering momentum for years. Fashion borrowing from athletic spaces and vice versa, is nothing new; the feeling is mutual, the impact obvious. It's why Balenciaga released ski goggles, why Village PM dropped an all-red version of its flagship model, and why MM6 Maison Margiela put a derby on a trail sole.
What’s more interesting this time around is the specific interplay of mass and niche, expensive and attainable, IYKYK-name and global powerhouse as the new norm. This dynamic affects what materially takes shape, how wares are presented visually, and which audiences are engaging. The result is a new commercial standard for how people dress and what they expect their clothing to be capable of. And so adidas will work with a community-credded Satisfy on a $600 redesign of the former's blockbuster racer while the latter makes Western “running” button-ups with a proprietary high-tech twill. You’re not supposed to be able to tell the difference between it and a regular button-up — and that's the whole point. Nor are you supposed to even choose sides between formal or functional in the first place. You're supposed to walk in it. Or jog, hike or bike.
OPEN TABS: Everything We've Got Our Eyes On Right Now
Still, for the athleisure-averse, there are still traditionally dressy (if unusual) offerings out there, of which the 2.0 Sperry x Colbo collab's loafer is my current footwear favorite.
Picture it: the Banana Republic x Zankov brushed cashmere socks with the aforementioned shoes! These babies easily outmaxx the category's optics-to-coziness ratio.
The Barbour x Paraboot derbies have got me making that lip-bite “oof” emoji face.
Some good deals: Farfetch has 25% markdowns on select new arrivals; Mytheresa deducts 20% from sale orders exceeding $350; SOAR's bundle builder saves you 15% on jacket/top/bottom combos; ADDON gets you 20% at GAP.
I don't think I've ever gotten excited about purple pleated jeans the way I did when I saw these NOAHs. Not sure I've ever even seen purple pleated jeans to begin with.
Wool shirts are hot, we've established, in every sense — and so is Document's cashmere-blend denim shacket.
For old schoolers (and bargain hunters), here's a similarly chore-ish overshirt by Dries Van Noten, out of good ol’ fashion jeans cloth, 50% off.
Marni's colorful, balaclava-style wool hood is a cold day's remedy for the beanie-fatigued. It's also on sale.
If you're still pro-beanie, however, there's no harm done in copping one of Alex Mill's ribbed classic cashmere renditions. Get a whole rainbow's worth while you're at it!
I recently held a waffle knit in my hands and, for some bizarre reason, put it back. Don't be a fool like me, and get yourself this nice, well-priced Aaron Levine one. Do it for the both of us!
