"Success Is a Consequence, Not the Objective": How Jacques Marie Mage Built an Empire of Beautiful Eyewear
Jacques Marie Mage didn't become the coolest independent eyewear brand in the world by accident. The 12-year-old company obstinately fought against every industry norm by doing everything its own exhaustive way, combatting cut-cost convention to become the world's pre-eminent super-luxury eyewear house.
But, really, Jacques Marie Mage is not merely a maker of glasses. It's a comprehensive luxury maison that's only easily defined by its chunky acetate sunglasses, hand-sculpted in limited editions by eyewear artisans and sold (and sold-out) at four figures a pop.
As such, "we are not really interested in opening stores," says Steffy Bauwens, vice president of brand at Jacques Marie Mage. JMM instead operates "galleries."
The newest JMM gallery opened in New York's SoHo neighborhood in May, the culmination of many years spent patiently perfecting JMM's point of view. Rock 'n roll. Americana. The Wild West. Handcraft. Its sleek interior is a manifestation of the house's codes, trimmed with metal but offset by organic wood grain and animalistic aggression: Brusque zebra print, rough-hewn sculptures of beast skulls.
This space is to an ordinary eyewear store as New York City is to an ordinary metropolis: Muscular, imposing, and shaped by tangibility, just like JMM's eyewear.
"New York has been one of our strongest markets from the beginning. Many of our earliest collectors are here," says Bauwens. "A frame comes from a distinct set of influences, obsessions, references, conversations. In the gallery, we have the opportunity to share some of those things. That's what interests us about physical spaces. They allow people to understand the brand in a more complete way."
This interview has been edited and condensed.
Your press release describes this gallery as part of JMM's series of "distinct cultural and architectural expressions." What does that mean, exactly?
Physical spaces have become more important, not less. We spend so much of our lives encountering brands through screens that being able to step into an immersive environment has become increasingly meaningful.
We are fortunate to have incredible retail partners in New York and many of them have supported us for years. But there are certain things only an owned-and-operated gallery can do. It gives us a place to build relationships in a more personal way.
Talk to me about the location of this new space. Was it always the plan to be in SoHo?
New York, yes. SoHo, not necessarily. We spent years looking. For us, it was never about opening a store in a famous neighborhood. It was about finding a space with enough character to support the story we wanted to tell. When we found the Wooster Street space, we felt immediately that it had the right energy. There is history, but also a certain optimism. That combination is very New York.
Jérôme often talks about the tension between the American wilderness and the American city. In many ways, the gallery is built around that idea. You have these incredible Art Deco interiors by Jacques Garcia, and then these monumental animal sculptures by Quentin Garel. One speaks to civilization and refinement, the other to nature and something much older and more instinctive. Bringing those things together felt very natural in New York.
In this way, JMM feels especially successful. But what does "success" look like to you?
I don't spend much time thinking about success, to be honest.
What interests me is whether the work remains relevant and whether it continues to move people. Success is a consequence of that, not the objective. We live in a culture that tends to measure everything through growth, visibility, and scale. Those are useful metrics, but they are not necessarily the most interesting ones.
For me, success is seeing a collector return year after year. It's being able to invest in craftsmanship, support talented people, and continue developing ideas without compromising them.
The moment success becomes the objective, I think you risk losing the thing that made you successful in the first place.
That kind of year-over-year evolution feels indicative of JMM at large. What's changed since the first year? How have you adapted?
The pace has certainly changed. When we started, the industry felt smaller and perhaps a little less crowded. Today there are more brands, more channels, more collaborations, more launches. Everybody is competing for attention. At the same time, consumers have become much more knowledgeable. People are curious and they do their research. They care about how things are made and who is making them. I think that's been very positive.
We've adapted in the sense that the company has grown. We have capabilities today that we didn't have 12 years ago. We can take on projects that would have seemed impossible in the early days. But I don't think we've ever approached the business by asking what the market wants us to be. We've generally focused on what we want to create and then found the right audience for it.
Do you feel like consistency leads to stability?
I don't know that stability really exists. What you can build is trust. If people know what you stand for and if you consistently deliver on that promise, you can navigate a surprising amount of change.
Highsnobiety has affiliate marketing partnerships, which means we may receive a commission from your purchase. Want to shop the products our editors actually love? Visit our SHOPPER page and subscribe to the newsletter for recs on all things fashion, footwear, and beauty.