When’s the last time a silk scarf was actually used for its intended purpose? Actually, better question: What actually is the intended purpose of such a flimsy square of fabric? Unlike its far burlier knitted cotton and wool brothers, a silk scarf — or foulard, en français — wasn’t meant to be anything more than a light barrier against wind or rain or dust.

But even that purpose feels antiquated. The days of Queen Elizabeth or Grace Kelly wearing little silk headwraps are long over, yet the silk scarf still holds cultural significance that far outweighs its weight. 

Thank a handful of fashion brands who’ve been thinking outside the (silky) square box for that. Upcycled silk scarves were pleated and stretched into recent Conner Ives collections while more classic examples are tied around waists in Julian Klausner’s new Dries Van Noten era. 

Celine’s new “Infinite Possibilities” campaign, meanwhile, lives up to its name, showing new scarves — crafted from a high-density, more architecturally structured weave — as everything from bag charms and headbands to actual flags. 

The silk scarf is at its best when it's being used for nothing remotely scarfey. Loro Piana’s perfectly troll-worthy Foulard Handle is a $375 calfskin strap that you’re meant to tie a silk scarf through to create your own flimsy little handbag — scarf sold separately. Conner Ives, the upstart London designer and "Protect the Dolls" T-shirt maker, has been incorporating upcycled silk scarves sourced from Italy into his collections for seasons, as everything from tops to cummerbunds.

Presenting more creative takes on this simple accessory is logical. As with bag charms, these little foulards offer a low barrier to entry for brands and can translate to big business. Burberry returned to profit last year, driven in part by strong scarf sales — it even opened 200 “scarf bars” dedicated to its signature product (admittedly cut from chunky wool rather than silky, er, silk). 

Maybe the question isn’t what a silk scarf is for, but what it’s not for. Tie it to a bag, wrap it around your head, wave it like a flag to pledge your allegiance to a brand. Loro Piana’s product page for its expensive bag handle says that “each accessory is a whisper of individuality, a brushstroke of personality.” As absurd as the product itself might be, the sentiment is felt. Is there any easier way to signal your allegiance to a brand than throwing its silky little scarf into the mix? 

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