Sabato De Sarno and Gucci have called it quits. Hired as Gucci’s creative director in January 2023, De Sarno’s exit from the Italian fashion house was announced on February 6.

This was De Sarno’s first role as the creative director of a fashion house. He joined Gucci from Valentino where he was fashion director, overseeing both men’s and women’s collections. His CV also includes stints at Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, but he was a largely unknown name when he took the Gucci position. 

"I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci," says Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, in a statement. "I sincerely appreciate how he honored Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.”

Across two years with Gucci, De Sarno brought a more minimal, refined vision to the brand compared to his predecessor Alessandro Michele. 

His clean-cut, less logo-driven designs reflected the larger fashion landscape. Michele had thrived during the luxury streetwear boom and De Sarno’s new era was indicative of a return to traditional luxury fashion.

However, De Sarno's Gucci had to battle against a tough luxury climate and the house has seen a slump in revenue. In Kering’s third-quarter report of 2024, Gucci’s revenue had dropped by 25% year-on-year, while there was a 16% sales drop across Kering’s brand portfolio. 

Gucci is the French luxury group’s biggest revenue driver, so it will hope that a change in leadership will see an upturn in profits. 

“I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work that has been done to further strengthen Gucci’s fundamentals,” says Francesca Bellettini, Kering deputy CEO in charge of brand development, in a statement. “Stefano (Cantino, CEO of Gucci) and the new Artistic Direction will continue to build on this and to guide Gucci towards renewed fashion leadership and sustainable growth.”

Both De Sarno and Alessandro Michele were relatively unknown names when announced as Gucci's creative director, having held behind-the-scenes roles before the Gucci job. The label might take this approach once again.

However, rumors suggest the house is opting for a more tried-and-tested name. There are whispers that Hedi Slimane, a free agent since his surprise exit from CELINE, is en route to the Gucci job. If it is revenue that Gucci is chasing, Slimane has a proven record of swiftly causing a spike in sales.

Gucci has confirmed that its Fall/Winter 2025 fashion show (scheduled for February 25 in Milan), will be presented by the Gucci design office. The following collection will likely be a debut for whoever takes the reins at Gucci.