We sat down with Italian fashion creative Andrea Rosso to learn more about his new project MYAR, 55DSL and Diesel.
As the son of Renzo Rosso, founder of Diesel Clothing, Andrea Rosso has a lot to live up to. Directly related to such an important figure in Italian fashion, Andrea has taken everything he's learned from his father and his father's company - including being named Creative Director for Diesel's licenses in February of this year - and applied it to his own projects. First up, in 1994 Andrea founded 55DSL, a spinoff of his father's brand, tapping his own generation's fashion needs and bridging the gap between urban culture and fashion. 20 years later and he's done it again, this time repurposing vintage military gear for contemporary use.
A self-described "passion project," MYAR is unlike Andrea has ever done before and he's given us a sneak peek at what to expect from the fledgling brand along with some insight into his newfound fashion philosophy. With no commercial pressure to speak of, MYAR will only be available at influential fashion spots in the coming months, letting the brand develop organically over the next few years.
So what is MYAR and how does it differ from what you’ve done with 55DSL?
MYAR is the anagram of ARMY and also my initials, AR. It is my new little project - original military vintage pants renewed in a modern way for today’s use.
What does this brand mean to you? What inspired you to create it?
It means a lot cause it brings to life my passion for vintage without “institutional” barriers.
Who do you see wearing the brand? What would you like for it to represent for the people who wear it?
I don’t like to describe the person who will wear it, this is an “army” that still needs to be formed and hopefully it will form naturally. I do like people who sense sartorial, used clothing made with passion for material constructions and that have a story to tell.
Did you seek any guidance from you father before or during the time you started your own label?
No, I told him I wanted to do something on my own. And the day that I showed him my first pants I am not sure he understood what I was doing! Today, however, he is a big supporter of my personal project and I am proud of it.
The collection draws a lot of inspiration from military wear. What is it about the military lifestyle that prompted you to incorporate it into your line?
Military is everything, a lot of our everyday life carries a piece of military history, starting from your phone! I like the functionality, materials, patterns and workmanship of vintage military clothing, especially after WWII, '50s and '60s European pants. I think the sartorial work on these pants doesn’t exist anymore or is difficult to replicate, so I’m pretty lucky to use originals and renew them with a modern interpretation.
It is a difficult task but passion erases all difficulties…
What is the most important thing you’ve gained during your time as creative director for 55DSL? How have you integrated this into your own brand?
Family is important and 55DSL still is a family. This will never go away! With MYAR I discovered I have a lot of friends that encourage me and help me to assemble MYAR.
As a predominantly creative person in the fashion industry, was it essential for you to become knowledgeable with the business side of things while starting a brand from the ground up? If so, was this a difficult task?
I would love to tell you "yes" or "no," but so far I’m at the real beginning which means that I have to deal with everything! From the sewing of the T-shirts (done in my free time at home with my PFAFF sewing machine) to the partner involved, to contracting, to dealing with production, to INDESIGN catalog layout, etc. It is a difficult task but passion erases all difficulties…
Did you receive support from the Diesel community when you made the decision to venture out and start something completely individual from the Diesel brand?
I actually made it a point to not involve my Diesel colleagues as this is a personal project. That said, I felt a lot of encouragement and support from them and especially my close friends!
What do you hope to achieve with MYAR?
I hope to be able to freely to express myself with no “corporate” restrictions, to be free to use my head in the purest way. Start a new fresh urban ARMY under the name of MYAR.
Check out the first collection above and look for the garms to hit UNITED ARROWS and SOTO Berlin in the coming months.