Last season, Blumarine's Nicola Brognano presented a collection fit for the most fashionable of mermaids. For Fall/Winter 2023, the creative director washes up onto land, turning his attention from water to fire.

Continuing to mine the early 2000s for inspiration, Brognano fused sartorial hallmarks of the era (cargo pants, pointy-toed boots, skirts worn over pants) with elements of the mid to late aughts — specifically, the aesthetic known as "boho-chic."

The hippie-beatnik look, best worn by the Olsen twins and Rachel Zoe, is apparent in the ruffled blouses, furry vests, and fringed gowns of Blumarine's latest. Staged on a dirt runway dotted with moss, the show was high-fashion granola. In fact, the affair struck as a sort of haute Burning Man, thanks to the giant, flaming "B" situated in the center of the runway.

While traces of Y2K fashion are apparent in Brognano's new wares, FW23 is a far less literal interpretation of the trendy era. The designer's departure from a rather straightforward take on the early aughts — butterfly tops, low-rise jeans, denim-on-denim — is a refreshing change.

Y2K will always be core to Blumarine's brand identity, but FW23 proves that the label is far from a one trick pony.