As surprising as it was when Thom Browne suddenly debuted its first-ever sneaker collaboration at the GQ Bowl earlier this year, it was less surprising that, of all the sportswear titans, Browne would partner with ASICS. The Japanese company is a master of marrying cutting-edge tech and the human touch, frequently bringing in outside geniuses to infuse its typically technical footwear with the kind of craft reserved for bespoke shoes. But we're talking about running sneakers!
It's not just that Thom Browne is craft-conscious — it is, of course, with seasonal collections uniformly rounded out by cashmere knitwear slow-made in the UK and outerwear cut from Japanese tweed — but that the 25-year-old label is ASICS' anti-conformist equal.
To summarize Thom Browne's signature product as "a suit" is to miss the point: its shrunken sets symbolize its singularity. This is a company that cuts through trend like how ASICS dissects sportswear tropes. Who says mass-market sneakers can't also be small-batch? Who says that there's a "correct" notion of tailored garments? Who says a brand most famous for suits can't make its own running shoe?
Available from Thom Browne's website, stores, and a handful of partner retailers from March 2, the grey and black Thom Browne ASICS GEL-Kayano 14 sneakers — the white pair's release date is unannounced — are a distillation of both brands' departure from the norm. Heck, they're a departure from both parties' norms.
To glean a little insight into the grosgrain-trimmed shoes, and maybe even the future of Thom Browne's sneaker team-ups, we spoke with Browne himself.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
Simply, why ASICS?
I’ve always respected and admired the history behind ASICS and what their brand stands for. Working on this project with ASICS, I wanted to make sure to get it right, that it felt mutually respectful towards their brand and mine.
That mutual respect is apparent when you really look at the shoe, there's a nice balance between the worlds of Thom Browne and ASICS.
Every collaboration I approach comes from this deeply personal perspective and is ultimately something I want to use myself, you see that in my approach to bringing signature elements of my brand to their silhouette. The Thom Browne for ASICS GEL-Kayano 14 fits so seamlessly amongst my brand. It was important that I didn’t overdevelop or complicate the design, bringing together my world with theirs.
The ASICS team are experts at what they do. I wanted to showcase the groundwork of what you see in my tailoring amongst their perfected design in a way that felt true to me, this is why you see classic tailoring finishes, my signature grosgrains detailing and fabrics true to my brand. [It] looks just as good at the office as it does on the field.
Speaking of the field, I know you're a longtime runner — why the GEL-Kayano 14, of all ASICS models?
The GEL-Kayano 14 for me was and is the perfect running shoe that I used growing up. When most people think of ASICS they immediately reference this iconic silhouette. I wanted to bring my design to a shoe that everyone recognizes, complimenting and respecting what they’ve done so well.
How do you see these ASICS sneakers existing alongside the existing Thom Browne wardrobe, including the in-house footwear?
Everyone has to dress and approach life in a way that feels personal to them. This could be with classic English made brogues or Japanese-made running shoes. What’s important to me is that you always respect the craftsmanship, creativity and design that went into bringing to life what you’re wearing, understanding and championing these qualities make any piece of clothing right for any moment.
And, because I have to ask: any future sneaker collaborations in the works?
You’ll have to wait and see. But only with ASICS, of course.
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