One of the most talked-about shows of London’s menswear week came from Cottweiler, who presented an innovative take on athletic gear that turned to new age religious groups and cutting edge Italian fabrics for inspiration.
You don’t have to spend much time in London to know that the city lives and breathes sportswear. It’s hardly surprising, then, that one of the most talked-about shows of the city’s menswear week came from Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty’s Cottweiler label, who presented an innovative take on athletic gear that cited new age cults as inspiration.
As we outlined in our preview for London Collections: Men, Cottweiler’s interpretation of sportswear has won them many fans, including the likes of Skepta and FKA Twigs, and this season’s haunting installation will no doubt cement the label as ones to watch in the future.
Converting a London sports centre into an eerie installation featuring a droning, gong-heavy soundtrack – neatly encapsulating the line’s mix of athletic and cult influences – the brand presented a line of virginal, all-white sportswear that stripped away branding and superfluous detailing.
“We’ve taken a lot of inspiration from new age religious groups and cults, we wanted to create our own religion,” Dainty said. Many of presentation’s models sported toga-like garments, devotedly brandishing everyday objects and luggage as if prepared for a bizarre, nylon-infused pilgrimage.
Cottweiler’s signature tracksuits (sported by grime MC Skepta in his recent The Fader cover story) were executed in bonded and rubberized Italian fabrics, accompanied by shorts, three-quarter-length track pants and highly breathable, mesh-paneled caps. The blend of haunting soundtrack, tranquil installations and cutting-edge garments made for one of the week’s strongest showcases, and one that will no doubt cement this young label as ones to watch for the future.
Of particular note were the strapped, all-white sneakers worn by many of the models – which we are told are a yet-to-be-announced Nike Tier Zero release.