The New Dior Man Is Hardly as Kooky as He Seems (EXCLUSIVE)
At first glance, the return of Jonathan Anderson’s Dior Men was a full-blown, head-scrambling, wig-out. It was impossible to avoid locking onto the neon yellow hairpieces that topped over a third of the models. Perhaps, as some insiders have speculated, it was a tribute to legendary Scottish designer Pam Hogg’s signature canary-coloured barnet. Either way, the synthetic ‘dos, designed by hair stylist Guido Palau, set the tone for something mad.
But never judge a show by its coiffure. Once your eyes darted away from the yellow mounds, something far more polished emerged. Hear us out. Yes, there was obviously weirdness beyond the wigs. And before the show, Anderson declared he didn’t want “normality,” which was certainly the case with the jazzy disco pants printed with butterfly patterns or the cropped puffa jackets adorned with gargantuan shearling cuffs. And yet, past all the wild stuff on display, Anderson did indeed offer some seriously grounded (and seriously good) stuff.
Obviously, with Anderson at the helm, absolutely nothing was quotidian. Chatoyant crochet tops and toffish neck ruffs took cues from storied French couturier Paul Poiret, whose penchant for playing dress-up informed the collection's more theatrical moments and aristocratic influences.
But there was a lot of wearable menswear behind the madness. This came clear when Highsnobiety got an up-close look at Anderson’s genderfluid collection a day after it debuted. It revealed a laissez-faire polo shirt (encrusted, albeit, with blingy epaulets) paired with pleated slate slacks and an ornamental belt, perfect for going from golf course to nightclub.
Elsewhere, a fur-lined parka inspired by romantic-pop wailer Mk.gee (who featured on the moodboard and in the front row) added a grungy energy and washed-out denim cargo pants made things slouchier.
Peak-lapel suiting dialled down the louche flamboyance with a classic silhouette while a mint-and-white Winchester shirt was, well, as solid as it gets.
Obviously, yes, the glittery lilac vest, shrunken Bar jacket, and three-quarter length, explosively wide, floral cream shorts aren’t ideal for a quick trip to the shops. But Anderson’s star quality lies in his ability to take the edge off eccentricity with a foundation of exceptional design.
He uses zaniness not as a mask to distract from the more conventional but as a misdirection, to reward those who keep watching with pure magic.
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