Virgil Abloh dropped his FW18 vision for OFF-WHITE in Paris this morning. The show was titled “BUSINESS CASUAL,” which is appropriate because if anybody has grown their fashion label into a global business recently, it’s Virgil Abloh.
Set in the brutalist Centre Georges Pompidou with an all-red interior, the collection consisted of shirts (with diagonal button openings), ties, semi-opaque raincoats (almost American Psycho), oversized distressed knitwear, tie-dye, paint-splattered pants, leather jackets, and hoodies worn over shirts. The vibe was slightly tech-bro, slightly heroin-chic and syncs up with some of the European dadcore designs used by Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga and Vetements.
Sneakerheads will be pleased to know that a new version of the Virgil Abloh x Nike Air Jordan 1 was flexed in an all-white colorway, which is rumored to be part of a women’s collection dropping later this year. Also from the footwear side of things, there were a few pairs of velvet Timberlands in burgundy and navy. Er, does anything say “workwear for people who don’t work” quite like a pair of velvet Timberlands?
Soundtracking the show were a few (possibly ironic) bangers from Weezer and a heavy focus on the Beastie Boys who were also referenced in one of the white sweatshirts with their name in signature air quotes. It’s worth remembering that the ’80s hip-hop group (still the best-selling hip-hop group of all time FYI) found their success in the golden age of record sampling. One of their biggest hits on Paul’s Boutique used anywhere between 100-300 samples thanks to the relatively lax copyright laws of the time.
The idea of sampling is nothing new to Abloh’s creative approach, and it helps to think of a quote from the designer’s highly edifying interview with 032c, which still rings true after every season, “Abloh rejects the who-did-it-first mentality of previous generations in favor of the copy-paste logic of the Internet and its inhabitants.”
Models walked the finale to “Tunnel Vision” by Frank Ocean. Notable guests included Takashi Murakami and of course, Virgil Abloh himself, who dashed out for a quick thank you in a hoodie from Stray Rats.
Check out the full collection in the gallery above and take a closer look at the all-white Virgil Abloh x Nike Air Jordan 1 here.
- Photography: Eva Al Desnudo / Highsnobiety