Open Fire on Open Toes
You're reading Shopper: Highsnobiety's bulletin on what’s taking up headspace from the marketplace. Below is an edit of May 5's newsletter, in which Shopping Editor Max Migowski studies summer's best footwear. Subscribe here, or head to the Shopping tab for more recs.
The Shoe-zempic Effect
I'm an avid runner. The reason why I bring this up has little to do with a superiority complex; in fact, I tend to feel pretty inferior this time of year when I’m reminded again of the inadequacies of good summer footwear — both universally but also, more painfully, with regards to to my ever-wounded tootsies.
Whether or you're actively looking to conceal your toes this season, or are just generally at a loss for decent alternatives to the flips have flopped, you'll come to find the options feel scarce, in both a literal sense and an aesthetic one. What that means is that, amid the collapse of the sneaker stronghold and an omnipresence of Havaianas, Birkenstocks, and other familiar warm-weather favorites, the remaining breadth of contenders appears rather narrow — as do their actual, physical silhouettes.
This newsletter has already reported plenty on the overall shoe situation at hand, what with the return of classically casual, straightforward styles like a VansAuthentic (and the countless luxury variations of it) in one place, and retro-traditionalist shapes in others, like derbies, loafers, or moccasins. Hotter temperatures only amplify footwear's radical ongoing simplification: ballet-ish flats are for (and by) everyone now, soles are vanishingly thin (or just plain absent), and what distinguishes socks from slippers is next to imperceptible in some cases. We’re experiencing jab after jab of shoe-zempic, it seems, with even Nike's famously lugged Moon Shoe looking more wafer than waffle lately.
In other words, footwear's on a diet, and a consistent one at that. Shoes have gotten and are staying slimmer, flatter, leaner, taking on the barebones austerity of a flip-flop, at not-as-austere prices. Every three-eyeleted skate or deck shoe, there's a high-end counterpart; every Timberland has its Miu Miu,every Keds its Celine— From Alaïa to ARKET, Clarks to Camper, footwear across the board's taking on increasingly purist forms. By comparison, my beloved and buckled Our Legacy mules feel almost eccentric.
Indeed, pared-down niche sneaker designs might be the salve for non-sandalwear this season. I'm talking the Supergas, Victorias and Bensimons of the world, the Asahis and Spring Courts, all of which have had territorial claim over their respective region of origin for long, now scooching onto radar as their essentials-only appeal gains broader momentum. Some more niche than others, they've been most popular among particular demographics and crowds and scenes across their native Italy, France, Spain or Japan, and have never really cracked into the international mainstream quite like certain other canvas kicks one could argue they resemble. And I find, very charmingly so, each in a rainbow's variety of colors, surprisingly versatile, and safe from this mass tabi-fication I'm unsure who asked for.
But there are intriguing developments on the opposite end of the spectrum. Minimalism’s counterpart might well be the domain of ultra-technical, formerly context-specific gear now worn within everyday settings. Take, for instance, adidas’ successful push of its AdiZero model: Hyper-functional runners first and foremost, these babies are eagerly underway to becoming bona fide lifestyle steppers just the same, not unlike the brand's football (read: soccer) cleats that are entering their fashion era. The traction caused by something like Village PM's climbing shoe-inspired skate sneakers is, I'd posit, equally symptomatic of this tendency for allotting coolness to concreteness.
So, there you have it. The best summer footwear for sandal-avoidants feels quite rich in options after all, stems either from deep within the specialty sports section and their respective interest groups, or from so-obvious-you’ve-forgotten-about-them sources — like the tastefully Lemaire-coded ballerinas my editor saw on the subway. Upon stopping their owner, she learned that they were from Zara, and cost less than $100. You're welcome.
Open Tabs
EVERYTHING WE'VE GOT OUR EYES ON RIGHT NOW:
There's no such thing as too many shoes, certainly not in this space, so continuing on with the theme above, we’re happy to report the boot experts at Blundstone are in the business of clogs now, too.
Of course generational tastemaker Phoebe Philo would be among those leading the charge of sleekly slim slip-ons.
Temperature-sensitive wool blazer? HAVEN!
Temperature-sensitive wool pants? Armani!
… or this linen pair by COS.
Shorts-lovers (and-haters) may want to consider splurging on these pleated Celine quasi-culottes.
And for underneath, why not Berner Kühl's checked shirt or the deliciously faded indigo denim?
I could go back in time, I'd add these Dior sunnies to last week's newsletter. I can't, so now they’re here.
It's the dreaded slash delightful season of summer weddings. As a male guest, is a white Issey Miyake blouse with scarf appropriate or too bride-y? I'll let you know…
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