Highsnobiety
Double Tap to Zoom
TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.
1 / 30

Brand: TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.

Season: Spring/Summer 2022

Buy: SSENSE, MATCHESFASHION.COM

Release Date: Early 2022

Editor's Notes: In certain circles, Japanese designer Takahiro Miyashita is a living legend. Archivists obsess over the adventurousness and extreme quality of his former brand, NUMBER (N)INE, and current project, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.

But Miyashita himself takes it all in stride, at least publically. Miyashita is happier to espouse his love for personal passions (especially The Beatles) rather than the fashion biz, despite his fastidious design approach. And thus, "PAUSE≒PLAY," his SS22 collection revealed during Rakuten Tokyo Fashion Week, draws not from typically cool reference points but from, uh, The Blue Man Group.

Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Instagram post.

"When I was reflecting about my past, the performance by Blue Man Group which I saw when I was 19 came to my mind," Miyashita told an interviewer. "I admired them for their coolness as well as playfulness." Hence the appearance of models with painted faces, revealed only when the Soloist-branded paper bags were removed at the end of the show.

But, Blue Man Group references aside, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist. is another display of fabulously intricate garment design. There are transforming three-way trousers, puffy upcycled vests, and plenty of unexpected pockets for the sake of "free[ing] ourselves from bags," Miyashita continued.

Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Instagram post.

"I have repeatedly expressed urgency to further evolve fashion and kept looking forward but for the first time this season I felt the need to pause and reevaluate. ... I pressed “pause” for a moment in order to press “play” again."

The mostly destaturated offering offers more toe shoes — now in leather! — PVC capes, and lacy Victorian collars, another classic Miyashita touchstone. But look beyond the ultra-cropped knit pullovers and dramatically deconstructed tailoring and witness the exceptional attention to detail throughout.

Miyashita affects a laid-back attitude but, behind the scenes, is a master craftsman, obsessing over every minor detail. Like The Blue Man Group, perhaps.

We Recommend
  • Kim Jones' Final Dior Collection Is a Career-Defining Parting Gift
  • Mountain Hardwear’s New Broad Spectrum Collection Turns Sun Block Sartorial
  • The 10 Best New Collections for Spring — and How to Wear Them
  • The Japanese Clothing Brands Every Highsnobiety Reader Should Know & Where to Buy Them
  • Patta Channels the Rhythm of the Caribbean For SS25
What To Read Next
  • This Low-Top Swarovski Jordan Sneaker Is a Classic Gone Fancy
  • A Rain-Ready Suit from Vancouver's High-Tech Menswear Aficionado
  • Nike's Crazy, Techy Sneaker Shouldn't Go This Hard in "Cactus" Denim
  • Flavorfully Faded Fabrics From the Master of Californian Ease
  • These Ain't Your Average Check Shorts — They're Literally Bigger & Better
  • LOEWE & On Take One Step Forward, One Step Back