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Mr Porter

We'd heard of Haud before, but the first time we really saw what the brand meant and what it was capable of was through their FW16 "Dreams From My Farther" collection and the label's wonderfully bleak accompanying editorial shoot.

With the Paris presentation of the SS17 "Born Indigo" collection, it's pretty clear these guys are a label worth watching. Where many labels struggle for originality, Haud has it in bucket loads. At first glance, their SS17 collection seems like the thing made squarely for the 'summer goth', but a closer look shows this is a brand that is grounded far more in an artistic, artisanal approach to the clothes we wear.

Haud's collections tend to explore relevant concepts of contemporary life (last season looked at the changing reality and dreams between our generation and our parents, for example) which then translate into clothes both highly conceptual and yet, conversely, still remaining fundamentally wearable. Their SS17 collection, for example and similar to FW16, riffs off everyday workwear, centering on commonplace items you'd find in kitchens and garages around the world (such as aprons and overalls), as well as that streetwear staple that is military wear. This was then interposed with stronger concepts such as African nomads as well as the typical materials and looks of Middle Eastern market stallholders and snake charmers.

The result is a summer collection that squares bold, boxy, and angular silhouettes with looks that seem to suspend themselves off and drape themselves around the wearer. The technical elements, such as front pockets, lend a utilitarian functionality to items, while straps (the kind you see on aprons and overalls) are both playful and coy while challenging you aesthetically.

Pieces appear both masculine and agender at the same time. Part of this is through the muted and dark color palette that's grounded in monochrome with only deep reds and heavy blues offering respite. Some materials are treated with an industrial-esque sheen while others are left seemingly raw, sometimes with the two juxtaposing themselves in the same garment such as with the collection's bottoms that incorporate the kind of knee, shin and calf patches you'd see on workman's overalls.

It's strong stuff from a label that's arguably still in its infancy, but which has nonetheless developed a strong Japanese following. Take a look at the studio shots, above, for a closer look at the SS17 collection before heading to Haud's site for more info and to pre-order pieces.

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