Fashion Week Digest: Deep Vs in Milan, a Belt Boom in Paris
On the heels of Pitti Uomo in Florence, both Milan's and then Paris' most prolific fashion houses staged their SS25 men's shows. As June comes to a close, we wanted to quickly rehash some of the key trends and takeaways to emerge from this month's worth of collections by the likes Prada, J.W. Anderson, and Hermès, to name but a few.
Some of the major moments we've already reported on, of course, such as Dries Van Noten's final bow, outrageous pant silhouettes at LOEWE, or an impending hard launch of the male's bare midriff. Therefore, Mr. Porter and I applied our magnifying glasses to spot and dissect some of the more subtle catwalk reoccurrences.
Common Denominators of this Year's SS25 Men's Shows:
Return of the V-Neck
Yes, this is happening. Ready or not, here it comes: The v-neck is back! Runways were full of triangular male cleavage, both with and without shirts underneath, some more minimalist, others extravagant.
It's up to you how to style this – or rather, how to make use of your chest's new window front. Raw dog it? A chain? A fun button-up's collar? Possibilities aplenty.
A Belt Bonanza
To say belts made a comeback doesn't quite sit right with me, because they never really went anywhere. And yet, their presence felt different this time around, as they appeared not just as waist-fastening accessories, but as playfully decorative design elements. Hell, Raf and Miuccia didn't even bother using actual belts, but decided to have them painted on.
Seeing as this might be a little more experimental than some of y'all want to get, maybe opt for a fancy brooch-like buckle on a dyed strap for a bit of an added oomph, or a roomy, belted messenger bag, instead?
Crazy (for) Cardigans
Fashion's still crazy for crochet, no doubt. And riding the coattails of grander appreciation for grandma's hobby, is a general influx of eccentric knitwear.
Be it in color, weaving pattern, or form, sweater vests, cardigans and the like are reinstating themselves as loud, bold statement pieces – a far cry from the quiet cashmeres of recent memory's Succession-plagued shopping cart.
Textured Trousers
Pants received some extra TLC this season, with loads of unorthodox approaches to their tailoring and embellishment. One of many aspects representative of this, is the amount of dimension and commitment to novel material techniques on display.
Outsized pleats, chevron-woven wools, the widest of corduroys: Forget the 501s for once, it's all about adding shape and texture to your trousers, and drawing attention to an item of clothing that can often look more dutiful than designed. On another note, it reads almost counteractive to the short shorts craze happening in parallel. Guess these two trends balance each other out?
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