UNDERCOVER’s Twisted Dickies Are a First — for Several Reasons
In its first Dickies collaboration, UNDERCOVER went straight to the classics. The American workwear label’s signature boxy Eisenhower Jacket, below-the-knee work shorts, classic uniform shirt… this collaboration features all of Dickies most recognizable designs reconstructed like never before.
There are some obvious UNDERCOVER-enforced changes to these rugged clothes, like meandering zippers running down the front of a jacket and internal labels externalized so they hang outside.
But zoom in to find even more ways that UNDERCOVER toyed with almost every design element, from varying the sizes of the shirt buttons to skewing the pockets at funky angles and twisting the plackets into curved shapes.
In UNDERCOVER’s Spring/Summer 2026 “But Beautiful 4.5” collection, everything is similarly skew-whiff, from these Dickies to a host of other collaborations. That includes team-ups with returning partners like Vans, Champion, and hatmaker KIJIMA TAKAYUKI.
Amazingly, despite Dickies’ age and influence on UNDERCOVER’s universe, this is the pair’s first time coming together.
UNDERCOVER doesn’t have many established American labels left to debut collaborations with. Jun Takahashi’s brand has nearly done it all, from Nike sneakers to The North Face outdoor gear to Alpha Industries military jackets. UNDERCOVER is in a rare position where it's hard to find an all-new partner, thanks to 25 years of relentlessly varied collaborations.
Surprising that it took until now for UNDERCOVER to combine with Dickies, despite it being a similarly collaboration-happy label and fitting the mold of American heritage brands that UNDERCOVER likes to link up with. UNDERCOVER actually plumbed similar depths before with Carhartt WIP, making it one of the rare brands to have worked with two of the biggest names in workwear.
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