visvim Spring/Summer 2026 is as smooth as silk, quite literally. The Japanese label’s founder, Hiroki Nakamura, has spent the past few years testing the limits of lustrous silk fibers, making jeans using “silk denim” and even creating winter-ready silk puffer coats (yours for $5,060). The brand’s SS26 “Dissertation on Completely Harmonious" collection represents the culmination of Nakamura's years-long silk fixation.

As with all new visvim collections, this one comes with a detailed dissertation. Titled “A Return to Silk,” the essay presumably penned by Nakamura himself explains that SS26 is a rallying cry against synthetic materials like nylon, rayon, and polyester, which have largely replaced silk since the ‘60s. Specifically, visvim is proposing not just silk pajamas or gowns but bonafide silk workwear.

“Silk is a natural material with excellent utility,” visvim’s designer noted, explaining that true silk is woven from the "extremely fine fibers spun by silkworms," which inherently limits silk's volume and makes fabrication challenging. “The manufacturing process is complicated, time consuming, and expensive," Nakamura added, "so the demand for it has been in decline.”

But visvim isn’t one to be discouraged by long production times and high costs: the brand’s painstaking production techniques include dying clothing with volcanic mud and sucking the oil out of denim to make it "dry." Specialty items, like an Italian leatherhorsehide jacket sporting custom hardware, will often set you back upwards of five figures. 

But, since silk is both one of the strongest natural fibers and as breathable as it is quick-drying, you could argue that a silk visvim garment is a worthwhile investment.

We're not just talking about silk bedsheets or shirts, either, as it appears here in visvim’s signature worn-in workwear.

visvim’s aforementioned silk denim, made in Northern Kyoto from yarns too short for raw silk, is utilized for wide-legged jeans with splotches of paint that complement its washed-out patina while a reversible striped souvenir jacket has a glossy lightweight silk outer and rugged twill inner, showcasing the fiber’s versatility. 

And that’s just one part of the SS26 collection's innovative craft. Elsewhere, a garment-dyed varsity jacket is purposefully aged by hand and visvim's signature oversized "Jumbo" hoodie is actually made of fine wool for added warmth.

You will occasionally find synthetics where necessary — visvim sometimes uses nylon for its wind- and weather-proofing capabilities — but even then, the textiles are typically custom. The one throughline, especially with the silk items, is that nothing this nice comes cheap.

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