This Semi-Streetwear Pioneer Is Nearly a Quarter-Century Old — It's Time to Grow Up (EXCLUSIVE)
Before designing his inaugural collection as Wood Wood’s sole creative director, cofounder Brian SS Jensen watched Spaceship Earth. The 2020 documentary film about scientists self-quarantining for two years within the Biosphere 2, a living laboratory of ecosystems replicating life on Earth, gave Jensen a clear vision for the future of Wood Wood, one more hopeful than it might seem.
“We tried to imagine a new version, a biosphere 3,” Jensen says. “It felt very relevant. So many people are talking about going into space and colonizing, but [humans] don't have a lot of good experiences with colonizing. Maybe we should just stay and focus on where we are? It's a bit messy when I talk about it now, but in my head it made sense.”
From this abstract concept, he developed perhaps the most important Wood Wood collection to date.
Spaceship Wood Wood. Except instead of Earth's ecosystems, a holistic wardrobe.
Founded as a line of graphic tees, Wood Wood eventually expanded into a fully fledged line of streetwear-leaning casual clothes.
Wood Wood kept building. It was early to catch the wave of Scandinavian minimalism that eventually became ubiquitous by the 2010s. By then, Wood Wood had evolved into a series of concept boutiques stocking third-party brands with everything from sneakers to homeware even as it began presenting coed collections as Copenhagen Fashion Week runway shows.
But overexpansion stretched the label too far. In 2023, Wood Wood fell into insolvency. Danish fashion group DK Company acquired Wood Wood last year and spurred a personnel reshuffle. Jensen landed as creative director, a role previously assumed by fellow co-founder Karl-Oskar Olsen and then the duo behind womenswear label Aganovich. Fall/Winter 2025 is Jensen's first collection.
“It’s a recalibration of sorts, it's no secret that we’ve been off-path for a while,” admits Jensen. “Now it feels like we are going in the right direction again. I feel like we are coming home.”
A stark rural backdrop of grey stone hills and a wooden dome set the scene for this homecoming collection, a reflection of Jensen’s down-to-earth but also make-believe biosphere. Same for the innately wearable menswear littered with small, considered twists.
A khaki chore coat is splotched with brown, white, and green paint, becoming less of a camouflage military jacket than an artist’s uniform. Everything is intentional.
The knitwear’s rich shaggy boucle was chosen for its soft handfeel, and the coats’ wool twill was purposefully worn-down to affect the sensation of vintage. “We wanted to create pieces that feel lived in,” said Gitte Wetter, Wood Wood’s new head of design, in a statement.
Jensen’s favorite item is a boxy-fitting trucker jacket that’s not made from denim (as would be typical) but from a thin corduroy. “It’s a simple trick, but I quite like these small twists. And it's just a beautiful fabric,” says Jensen.
Everything in Wood Wood FW25 is so specific, in fact, that it intentionally excludes some classic items. Note that there's only a handful of graphic tees, for instance. “I’ve grown together with the brand, and it would be weird for me if Wood Wood was just still doing T-shirts," says Jensen. Plus, there’s no womenswear, for now. “We’re really trying to focus on the core [of the brand] and then build from that,” he adds.
That’s key for Jensen’s new creative reign over Wood Wood. This isn’t trying anything new.
He’s rebuilding the brand’s foundations through uncomplicated menswear staples in carefully selected fabrics, the kind of thing anyone can wear or appreciate.
“It's definitely a new era, but I think a lot of followers of the brand will recognize something that hasn't been present for a while,” says Jensen. “I see it as my job to guide the brand into a direction that feels more honest.”
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