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Polish-born designer Marta Jakubowski seems to have found a rhythm of her own graduating since from the Royal College of Art’s highly-lauded MA program in 2014. Where her last collection was one for the power-dressers, her FW17 offering is more delicate and unapologetically feminine, but her reputation for strict, seriously-cut tailoring remains intact.

For FW17, Jakubowski’s bold-yet-relaxed palette gets a Crayola cocktail update. Sleek, strong shapes are realized in punchy hues like tangerine, magenta, fuschia, deep plum and canary yellow. Wide-leg tailored trousers are deftly draped, and velvet turtlenecks are cut out and cropped with fabric trailing off the waist, resulting in symmetry-shattering proportions.

It’s a way fruitier collection — almost bubble gum in its mood — than we’ve ever seen from Jakubowski in the past, and it marks a moment of transition for a young designer carving out an identity on the saturated schedule of London Fashion Week. Standouts from the collection are undoubtedly shift-dresses that look as though they’ve been crafted from deconstructed puffer jackets – a nod to a strong ’90s staple that’s made a fierce comeback. While Jakubowski’s past collections have examined more morbid themes life and death, her latest disco-themed ode to ‘90s girl power reveals the designer’s softer side.

For more from London Fashion Week, check out the latest collection from ROBERTS | WOOD.

Words by Kam Dhillon
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