People Have Never Been More Pressed to Look Like They're Not
Before basics became the billboard for all sorts of ironic, funny nonsense or big quiet luxury blah blah, they were just that: basic. A heavyweight crewneck you’d grab off a shelf at the mall, probably from the GAP, in a shade of gray that didn’t even have an own name, or exist past the hems of a specific style of sweatshirt.
No drops, no limited runs, no technology woven into the fibers. Just cotton. Thick, dependable cotton. Somewhere along this road though, the humble sweatshirt got complicated. It slimmed down, smartened up, chased performance metrics, flirted with high end. Luxury went lounge, lounge went luxury. Logos shrank, then grew, then disappeared again. Fabrics got technical. Prices crept north. And now? We’re right back where we started.
With consumers continuing to fetishize '90s minimalism, errand-run-wear, and quality staples, it felt due time to have a scan of luxury's best modern takes on vintage-y, evergreen athleisure. Soft power dressing, if you will. At least that's what we dubbed these sometimes cohesive, sometimes clashing pairings of luxed-up loungewear in our newsletter, seen on everyone from the late Lady Di, CBK and JFK Jr.s, to Jacob Elordi. It's what happens when Our Legacy starts looking like Old Navy... Or was it the other way around? What matters more than where it began, is what it looks like in action now.
These '90-esque Sweats Do the Most By Doing the Least:
Our Legacy Purple Rascal Hoodie
Take Our Legacy's purple Rascal hoodie. It’s oversized in that distinctly Scandinavian way: dropped shoulders, generous body, a hood that actually, well, hoods. And in a washed purple finish that gives a sun-faded, trusted gym bag charm. It’s of those rare kinds of pieces that actually look better slightly crumpled.
Carne Bollente Red 'Zipcode: Desire' Hoodie
Carne Bollente clothes are known to wear their heart on their sleeve. Literally, and being subtle with it's clearly not the point. This red hoodie gives it to you straight: graphic and a little cheeky. It works precisely because of that blunt, simple nature, exactly like what the ’90s sporty streetwear it's inspired by did best.
Visvim Blue Jumbo SB P.O. Hoodie
On the more artisanal end of the spectrum, Visvim’s blue Jumbo hoodie channels vintage athletic wear through a luxury lens. The “jumbo” cut leans fully into that decade’s love for comfortable yet well-fitting shapes, but the materials are pure present-day Visvim: Japan-sourced, considered, and quietly elevated.
Acne Studios Gray Cotton Sweatpants
No ’90s revival would be complete without dependable gray sweats. These heathered Acne Studios cotton sweatpants deliver that off-duty model uniform vibe, relaxed but never sloppy.
Carhartt WIP Gray Chase Hoodie
Similarly, this Carhartt sweatshirt draws on workwear authenticity, recalling how ’90s sportswear and utilitarian gear often overlapped. It strikes the perfect balance, proving to be more nuanced than it first appears.
Needles Brown Boot-Cut Track Pants
Track pants, of course, are non-negotiable. The Needles brown track pant adds a subversive twist with its flared hem, for a silhouette that feels both retro and surprisingly contemporary. Having owned them, I can confidently say they stand out from the rest thanks to their leg-lengthening effect.
Studio Nicholson Off-White Portland Knit Sweater
Knitwear gets it, too. The Studio Nicholson sweater softens the athletic edge while maintaining generous proportions. It's sort of like that old waffle tee that always felt oddly tight and has now finally widened for a perfect fit. Call it a reinterpretation, call it ’90s gym gear grown up with a peppering of cool minimalism.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Monthly Colors February Hoodie
For those who prefer their nostalgia with a technical slant, Issey Miyake’s blue sweat rethinks the hoodie through pleats and a button closure, to really subvert and redefine what makes the category. Less Varsity, more design.
Dries Van Noten Black Loose Zipped Hoodie
And then there’s the Dries Van Noten loose zip hoodie. Its slightly snugger cut and shiny zipper nods to a turn-of-the-millennium moodboard. Activewear-inspired, with a true understanding of tailoring.
VETEMENTS Navy Taped Track Pants
Vetements channels classic ’90s energy and refines it. The navy track pants feature that familiar stripe detailing and relaxed volume, but the proportions read as casual, not lazy.
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Taupe Concordians Zip-Up Hoodie
Rick's hoodie stretches the silhouette darker and longer — unmistakably Owens. It's sporty bulkyness, filtered through a grunge prism. This is the kind of hoodie that only improves with wear. After 300 outings, it’ll look even better, broken in, lived in. And at 65% off, it’s less temptation, more inevitability.
Dries Van Noten Black Drawstring Sweatpants
Effortlessly chic, these black drawstring sweatpants sit somewhere between tailored ease and languid lounge. A clean drape-effect, refined and polished. This is the pair you throw on for everyday errands but with a level of still sophistication that'd transfer as neatly to evening dinner plans.
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