A Wildly Different Creative Director Takes Over Balenciaga
Balenciaga has brought on a wholly new designer to replace former creative director Demna. In a major twist, the Kering-owned luxury label has hired former Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli as joint Balenciaga overseers.
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga? What better way to intro the all-new Balanciaga CEO?
The news was confirmed by Balenciaga on May 19. Highsnobiety learned on May 12, internal Kering emails confirmed Pierpaolo Piccioli as Balenciaga's new creative director. Later that day, however, a Balenciaga representative told Highsnobiety, "For now, there is no official communication about our next creative director."
Martine Rose was rumored for the role, Highsnobiety learned, and may have been considered as co-creative director with Piccioli at some point.
But only Pierpaolo Piccioli got the job.
The Italian designer directed Valentino for an impressive 16 or so years, boosting the brand's visibility and fortunes in the process. He left in 2024 and teasingly showed up at a Gucci store shortly after, seemingly hinting at Piccioli perhaps being tapped to replace then-embattled Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno. Of course, Demna got that job.
Still, Piccioli taking on Balenciaga is quite a coup. The designer was best known for gowns and circumstance, though his Valentino did occasionally channel a streetwear edge, especially on the menswear side. (the always credulous fashion rumor mill, meanwhile, was certain that Piccioli would land at Fendi as of late last year.) Quite a switch up from Demna's slouchy, ripped signatures.
So, what does all this mean for Balenciaga? It sounds like Kering wants to call back to the days of Cristóbal Balenciaga by way of Piccioli's couture experience. Less grunge and more glam, perhaps.
The timing makes sense, actually, what with Demna's final Balenciaga collection set to be presented during Paris Couture Week in July. After that? The future of Balenciaga.
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