With fashion week done and dusted, the internet is busy running its collective critical eye over the myriad new products that are expected to hit retailers later this year. The general consensus is that menswear is emerging out of the luxe streetwear era and into something more mature, with maximalist branding being superseded by a more low key aesthetic where the beauty lies in the details.
Here’s a rundown of some of the best pieces we saw at recent Fall/Winter 2020 collections showing in London, Milan, Florence, and Paris.
Scarf by Raf Simons
Scarves were huge this season, in the sense that all the top designers had them on show and that they were literally trailing to the floor. This multi-textured, knitted brown/black piece from Raf Simons’ FW20 collection hits all the right notes for statement neckwear.
Tie by 1017 ALYX 9SM
Ties are also having a big moment. The often forgotten menswear accessory appears to have shed its corporate connotations and has been recast as a fashion staple. The re-introduction of ties into the menswear sphere also adds a whole new dimension to the swathes of finely tailored shirts we saw on the runway. This slick black leather number from 1017 ALYX 9SM was used in the show’s memorable closing look from Bella Hadid.
Leopard Print Jacket by Dries Van Noten
Every fashion week, there’s a designer who does something special with the eternally fertile resource that is animal print. A new rival to Celine’s FW19 tiger coat came from Dries Van Noten, who made a leopard print biker jacket in a regular-fit cut.
Car Coat by Jil Sander
Jil Sander’s FW20 show was a lesson in masterful construction. This car coat, made from Japanese wool with rows of silver pendants, is an investment piece that will last a lifetime.
Wrap-Around Pants by Prada
Prada’s FW20 show was everything you might expect from the Milanese fashion house: modern, agenda-setting, and provocative. Perhaps the biggest game-changer is the arrival of these floral graphic pants that strap around the sole of your shoe.
Nike x sacai VaporWaffle
Following the success of the Nike x Sacai LDWaffle, FW20 ushered in the latest collaboration between Nike and Sacai. The Nike x sacai VaporWaffle features more of the doubled-up swooshes, stacked soles, duo-tone laces, and a mesh texture on the upper.
Bird Shirts by Loewe
Among some cocktail dresses and weighty chains, Jonathan Anderson unveiled two fantastic shirts for Loewe this season, with geese and cockerel prints on the front. It’s like finding a brilliant graphic T-shirt, but instead of a Gildan blank, it’s on a high-end aquamarine silk shirt.
Bag by Jacquemus
Jacquemus was one of the most hyped shows this season, with some of the biggest names — including Kaia Gerber and both the Hadid sisters — walking in the summery, neutral-toned collection. This doubled-up flat side-bag in pewter would work with anything and cements the label’s founder Simon Porte Jacquemus as the leading designer in covetable accessories.
Embroidered Coat from Dior
Kim Jones’ tribute to legendary punk stylist and designer Judy Blame resonated with many people this season. The show’s closing look featured this embroidered coat which, according to Jones, clocked in 940 hours of artisanal handiwork and was inspired by a 1969 couture dress from Dior’s former head designer Marc Bohan.