Prada Fall/Winter 2020 Men’s. Milan, Italy.
Frank Ocean never turned up, but that was the only predictable thing about Prada FW20.
After an SS20 sojourn in Shanghai, Prada returned to its home surroundings of Milan. Not that location really applies where this famous old house is concerned.
Ask anyone who’s checked in to the Pradaverse before and they’ll tell you how Miuccia’s shows exist in their own dimension: an otherworld of dizzying contrasts where fairytales clash with nightmares and hope meets despair. At least, that’s how the fashion review narrative usually goes. This time around the spectacle felt decidedly less portentous as Prada went back to school — quite literally in a stylistic sense — with a collection that oozed youth. Miuccia’s show notes spoke of “anti-heroic masculinity,” which could be read as her assault on classic menswear codes. Notable was the fact this war was waged with “more than 90 percent” of fabrics that are sustainable.
After entering the Fondazione Prada, guests took their seats at two identical spaces that looked over red-bathed, imaginary piazzas. A Rem Koolhaas designed 3D cut-out of a horse and its rider stood in the middle of the floor, serving as a point of reference for the models as they latticed between each other. Sure, there were plenty of the usual Prada signifiers on display — nylon coats, plaid, and boxy silhouettes — but there was nothing here that screamed Instagram catnip like the Frankenstein Monster camp shirts from this time last year. Rather, what we saw was a masterclass in transgressive chic. Old school Prada fans, rejoice.
There’s been an ongoing conversation among style commentators about whether we’re on the cusp of a menswear 2.0 reboot; the grown-up clothing mooted as a panacea to overplayed, maximalist aesthetics. Here, Prada showed us something that was neither (“techno classicism,” according to the post-show press-release). This was dapper clothing from the year 2050, like mid-aughts Dior Homme on a heavy dose of mushrooms. It was smart but edgy; loud yet never not refined. Razor-sharp prep crafted by aliens in outer space. Who else would send baroque, ruffled tunics and devilish geometric print trousers down the same runway? While some of us are busy squabbling about what will pop off for menswear in the future, Miuccia is already there, defining it how she sees fit.
Audience on the show
“It was great as always. It’s the show of Milan. It’s one of the most important men’s shows of the season. It always surprises you; she doesn’t just incrementally evolve the same kind of look, it’s always something totally different. Everything is important; the shoes, the shape of the pants, the length of the coat. There was some classic Prada, but there was new elements too, like that strap under the shoe.” – The Sartorialist
Highsnobiety’s Shopping List
Tunics with ruffled bibs? Sign us up! This pajama look is a perfect example of Miuccia’s midas touch when it comes to reimagining classic styles. Huge “incalcitrant prince from the early middle ages” energy.
Geometric print trouers
One of the biggest talking points from the show were these bonkers kaleidoscopic trousers that wrapped around the foot. God forbid you’d wear them when there’s sleet lying outside.
This beautifully crafted travel blazer with cropped sleeves is perfect for showing off that fake A. Lange & Söhne watch you just copped online.
adidas, who? Prada sneakers are supposed to be balls-out crazy, like this seemingly new iteration of the Cloudbust above.