Dior took to the runway on day one of Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 on September 26 with a women’s collection inspired by unconventional females from throughout history.

Taking place in the heart of the French capital, the show, designed by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, was presented amidst a wraparound digital installation titled ‘NOT HER’ by the artist Elena Bellantoni which recreated past examples of sexist advertising with corresponding texts that critically correct the original messages from a feminist viewpoint.

When it came to the clothes themselves, things were sombre. Dior’s renowned tailoring arrived softened and worn with shirts and slouchy trousers or pleated skirts, while elsewhere details were uncharacteristically raw-edged and holed.

Leather had been cut into jackets and blouses which were glazed and cracked and echoed by the profusion of corresponding gloves. Sportswear came to life through denim with burn-like outlines, a strapped cape, and toggle-fastened drawstring pleating.

As has become a trend this season, footwear followed the ballerina form with low heels, and elegantly frayed bows and pearls as trim.