You'd be forgiven for thinking that Dior Men's Spring/Summer 2024 was all about the celebrities. With big names like Demi Moore, Offset and model Winnie Harlow sitting front row, the celebs practically stole the show — Following the SS24 runway show, Dior's presence on social media was completely dominated by Thai idol ambassadors Mile Phakphum Romsaithong and Nattawin Wattanagitiphat, whose fans flooded their photos across Twitter and Instagram.
But to focus on the famous faces is to do a disservice to Dior men's creative director Kim Jones, who again created a compelling lineup of highly wearable tailoring-centric stuff. But even more exciting that Dior's SS24 clothes was the collection's wild runway staging.
Who needs a catwalk when you've got a trap door?
Guests at the Dior show were initially faced with a long, blank stage. You'd think that models would round the corner and begin their runway shenanigans as per usual, right?
Wrong! Instead, Dior's new collection patiently rose up from the ground like some sort of luxury fashion game show. Though models did actually hit the road and stroll the runway to show off the goods, it was pretty hard to top that intro in sheer visual drama.
Hey, it's Kim Jones' fifth anniversary at Dior — no better time to roll out a proper show-stopper.
The clothes themselves are quintessential Kim Jones Dior. Neutral-toned suits embellished with a veritable Broadway costume department's-worth of applique and shiny baubles designed by Dior jewelry head and AMBUSH co-founder Yoon Ahn.
Most of the shapes were pretty classic, occasionally interrupted by trousers cut a little short or a lot wide.
The palette was also typically neutral — lots of grey, beige, and brown — except for when it wasn't: as Jones is wont to do, he occasionally threw in some wild stuff, like textural tweed or leopard-patterned vests and loafers.
And then there's the fancy hats, which are almost as big a deal as the wild trap door entrance.
Five years in on Kim Jones' Dior Homme and it feels like both so much and so little has changed.
The seasonal artist collaborations have cooled — remember that Jones' Dior tenure began with a literally giant KAWS collaboration? — but Jones' refined, versatile suits and statement jewelry are eternal.
Jones is now content to let his Dior clothes sell itself, which it likely does with aplomb. Not that a little showmanship here and there hurts anything.
