Highsnobiety

Kiko Kostadinov is in cruise control. That doesn't sound like praise, I know, but it certainly is.

Kostadinov has never driven in any lane besides his own. The British designer is resolutely committed to blazing his own trail and that he's so perfectly streamlined his vision to a point where it's become dually consistent and accessible is a testament to his tremendous design acumen.

Spring/Summer 2025 is as good a Kiko Kostadinov collection to start with as the designer's debut collection, which bowed nearly one decade ago in 2016.

It's remarkable that Kostadinov is still delivering clothing so objectively adventurous but it's even more remarkable that Kostadinov's designs are this progressive while becoming increasingly approachable.

This speaks to a shifting menswear landscape, to be sure, one wherein a multitude of young designers have sprung up in Kostadinov's shadow, aping his figure-warping, lightly technical design language.

But there is only one Kostadinov. His SS25 menswear collection proves it.

Whereas Kostadinov was often compelled to create pleasantly challenging clothes — shirts that draped to the knee or buttoned to the shoulder, trousers that curved, flared, and clung in the vein of Christopher Nemeth — the ensuing creations were often so challenging as to necessitate more accessible offshoots to allow fans into his world.

Kostadinov's wilder side remains intact — SS25 includes both massive tunic shirts and artful all-over prints — but he's found his comfort zone.

Perhaps his dedicated ASICS line has mellowed him out or maybe his staggering rise has engendered a sense of comfort, thus broadening Kostadinov's creative cues.

It's all so imminently wearable but all so wonderfully Kostadinov, with piecemeal knitwear, short-sleeved sweaters, paneled work jackets, and his signature twisted trousers, which don't flatter the body as much as they reframe it.

This is all evidence of Kostadinov's evolution. His signatures — those silhouettes, those sliced panels — are instantly recognizable but his clothes have never been so appreciably solid.

Fantastical touches remain for true adherents but even the casual admirer could zip up Kostadinov's high-collar harringtons and speckled slacks.

Kiko Kostadinov for everyone.

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