THE NEXT 20: The Top Brands & Pioneers Reshaping Youth Culture

As is to be expected, each of the 10 brands are unique and therefore altogether make up an eclectically diverse bunch, but their distinctiveness is also what unites them. They share the commonality of having cemented their foundations by a clearly defined, core principle and/or cultural identity.

A cohort of brands are especially noteworthy for their direct and specific reference to certain cultural roots and history. Denim Tears and Barriers Worldwide, for example, proudly highlight the Black diaspora, both illustrating the plight of the Black people and honoring them: Tremaine Emory’s cotton wreath denim, which has become Denim Tears’ most popular signature, symbolizes slavery; Barriers makes T-shirts and hoodies with depictions of prominent Black figures on them, from Miles Davis and Rosa Parks, to Maya Angelou and W.E.B Dubois.

“Barter’s authenticity and connection to his culture and history is important in today’s creative leadership,” Advisory Board member Sandrine Charles tells Highsnobiety of Steven Barter, founder of Barriers who goes by his surname.

Theophilio, LUAR, and paria /FARZANEH are respectively inspired by post-WWII Caribbean immigrants, Brooklyn’s Queer Dominican community, and Iranian traditions. “It's incredibly refreshing to see Paria's vision in challenging the western perception of Middle Eastern culture and aesthetic, and boldly blurring the lines between the two distinctly different worlds that have informed her experience,” Advisory Board member Gia Kuan says.

“Theophilio [is the] number one designer that immediately comes to mind when I think about who has been making the most impact both on the product and cultural level,” says Highsnobiety Rolodex member, Brendan Smith (25, Advertising & Marketing).

Julie Gilhart, Chief Development Officer at Tomorrow showroom, expands on Theophilio: “Edvin Thompson offers a fresh perspective while seamlessly marrying past and present into the narrative of his work. [His] garments are infused with memory and meaning; they are a celebration of identity relating to his Jamaican roots.”

Now more than ever, brands that may have been typically cast away in their own league are appealing to a wider demand, reaching beyond their immediate niche and uplifting underrepresented communities.

The founding principle for (di)vision, the Copenhagen-hailing brand run by siblings Simon and Nanna Wick, is environmental sustainability. The brand only creates from “what already is,” taking deadstock material and vintage workwear and military pieces to cut-and-sew 1-of-1 designs. “What’s currently the hardest challenge for us right now is scaling without neglecting our core values,” Simon Wick told Highsnobiety in an interview last year. “We want to grow, but we also want to do it the right way. If suddenly we get an order of 1,000 pairs of jeans and we can’t deliver them sustainably, we’re not going to deliver them. That’s what we want to show, because I think that’s what people need right now.”

Some of the top 10 brands stand out for their way of operating more as a collective and community, rather than by a sole founder or creative director. LUAR, although founded by prominent fashion figure Raul Lopez (who also co-founded Hood By Air, is known for its tight-knit family of friends and muses. “It’s amazing to see the strength that lies in the community and family surrounding Raul and his brand — the trust, vision, and love that comes together is very powerful,” Kuan says.

The same is true for London-based Corteiz, run by the enigmatic founder who only goes by “Clint.” The brand’s rebellious spirit shows through in its guerilla-style pop up releases and giveaway events, which are only marketed via social media and word-of-mouth and still attract hundreds of people to swarm the streets. “Thinking in terms of streetwear, London-based brands are taking over, especially Corteiz… They are seeping into music videos, fashion influencers’ wardrobes, and even doing collabs, too,” says Highsnobiety Rolodex member, Julia Lebosse (Student). Indeed, Corteiz’s recognizable Alcatraz logo has been spotted on Stormy, Dave,Slowthai, and Jorja Smith . Even Virgil Abloh wore Corteiz socks to the MET Gala last year.

Kusikohc, the backwards spelling of its founder’s name, Cho Gi-Seok (Kisuk), is the only brand from Asia that made this NEXT 20 list. The Seoul-based label is as artisanal in its design approach as Cho is in his photography, the first medium through which audiences came to know his work. “Kusikohc [is] showing fresh new looks and has got my attention with interesting silhouettes and creative motifs,” says HS Rolodex member, Walter Prince (25, Advertising & Marketing). Bohan Qiu, HS panelist and founder of Boh Projects, a Shanghai-based creative agency, agrees: “Gi-Seok pioneers an alternative vision into his clothing that is shaking up aesthetics, merging subculture notes. [He has] a very refreshed contemporary ‘street to luxury’ attitude that feels instinctively Asian but also universally relevant.”

Martine Ali, the only exclusively accessories-focused brand on the list, handmakes made-to-order jewelry and silver hardware bags in Brooklyn. “Martine Ali [is] another designer that has sent shockwaves through 2022 with her jewelry,” Brendan Smith says, a sentiment also echoed by our panelists: “[She’s] killing it in the jewelry space — truthfully very well made [and] long-lasting but also statement pieces,” says Kuan.

Los Angeles-based Museum of Peace and Quiet, which was part of our “On the Rise” NEXT 20 runner-ups in 2020 Q3, calls itself “a leisure company.” The casualwear brand is headed by husband-and-wife duo, Christion and Ashley Lennon, who offer up relaxed ‘fits and lifestyle objects like Joya candles that provide a nice, relaxing mental detox from the busy-ness of our lives.

CULTURAL PIONEERS