The collections shown at the various fashion weeks that kicked off 2019 will no doubt creep into various trends, hyped items, and inevitable knock-offs as the year drips on. Last season, shown in June, suggested a menswear revolution was on the way. So what of Fall/Winter 2019?
As we had predicted, tailoring was thrust to the forefront, with contemporary updates and technical details. Meanwhile, the style codes of the era were established via new silhouettes and accumulative subcultural references as seen among the collections of FACETASM and Acne Studios.
Highsnobiety was on the ground in London, Florence, Milan, and Paris, and we’ve asked our fashion team what they thought stood out. From up-and-comer Namacheko and cult titan UNDERCOVER to established heroes such as Dries Van Noten, Dior, and CELINE, here's what we thought looked best on the FW19 runway.
Christopher Morency, editor-at-large
It was hard not to pick anything Dior. Those muted gray hues of look 31 are all I want to wear next winter.
But, in my opinion, this season's best look came from emerging Swedish-Kurdish label Namacheko, which showed its collection in the futuristic Oscar Niemeyer-designed headquarters of the French Communist Party. The clothing is always impeccably made, with unexpected textiles and rooted in so much meaning.
The standouts were the three oversized knits, which referenced the process of blending oil colors. They were inspired by works by Vincent van Gogh, Edvard Munch, and Glenn Brown, and each was made from jacquard and flat-printed mohair.
Jian DeLeon, editorial director
Dries Van Noten is still one of my favorite designers because of the way he thinks about menswear. It's relevant in a way that feels modern and fresh but doesn't follow a trend. Sure, tie-dye and hippie style have been a wave, but here he makes a double-breasted suit subversive and desirable at the same time.
Of course, most people would probably break the trousers and jacket apart as separates, and as part of someone's wardrobe, they probably work better that way. But it would take serious balls to wear the full look as shown, and that's the kind of fashion I like to see on the catwalk.
Noah Thomas, assistant editor
Mark Weston made his FW19 Dunhill collection for the modern and the refined. It's refreshing to see a sense of code and true tailoring coming back. The slits on trousers resembling the kind usually found on track pants act as a nod that Weston is well aware of the current streetwear-inclined fashion climate and has decided to blend the best of both worlds.
This spoke to me because I feel this is what us young fashion boys should eventually turn into. Not turning away from our track pants and sneakers, but elevating our pieces with elegance.
Jan-Michael Quammie, style director
The entire Loewe FW19 collection pleasantly haunted me long after fashion week. There were definitely some show pieces that seemed to give us a window into what the future of fashion looks like, but then there was a sense of familiar wearability to them as well.
I'm a huge fan of Loewe's over-layered styling season after season, as it seems like each piece can be reimagined into a totally different look if stripped down. The blanket coat made of cashmere scarves screams luxe 2.0. There isn’t a single piece of this look I wouldn't wear, and I would be happy to do so as shown in its entirety or separately. That for me is what fashion should be — dreamy but make it wearable.
Max Grobe, associate fashion editor
For me, Dries Van Noten delivered the most beautiful collection this season. But as Jian has already explained why it was so good before me, I will refer to my second favorite collection: CELINE.
In an industry that demands newness season after season, it's refreshing to see a designer like Hedi Slimane stick to what he does best — that is, razor-sharp tailoring — but with a few new details here and there such as, in FW19's case, a refreshingly wider trouser cut, leather pants, and loud animal-print coats such as the yellow tiger stripes above, which injected some virility and color into the collection.
Fashion as an amorphous, constantly evolving art form is interesting, but style as a steady delivery of beautiful suits is just as good and infinitely more practical.
Other honourable mentions go to the mottled camouflage at 1017 ALYX 9SM and the oil-slick leather trench coat at Givenchy.
Atip Wananuruks, fashion director
As much as I love what’s happening now in the world of fash’un — the blurred lines between street and luxury — one of my all-time favorites is still UNDERCOVER. It’s hard to pick just one look from the FW19 collection, but if I had to, it would be this one. I have always loved the themes and film references that Jun Takahashi has drawn on for his collections, especially after having the pleasure of walking one of them in Tokyo many moons ago.