With its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Japanese brand UNDERCOVER is directly referencing... itself.
There's a lot more going on in UNDERCOVER FW23, "kosmische," than just self-referential imagery but that's a core element here.
Specifically, UNDERCOVER is riffing on an old design coveted by its die-hard fans and collectors.
In its Fall/Winter 2015 collection, “Hurt” — sort of a Nine Inch Nails reference, at least in the goth-y vibes — UNDERCOVER channeled a little bit of David Bowie and a little bit of the Universal horror monsters with a series of claw-like hand graphics that wrapped around the panels of bomber jackets and coats.
The designs immediately inspired bootlegs — real versions of the UNDERCOVER bomber, in particular, can still fetch upwards of four figures on the secondhand market.
Those statement accents made the FW15 UNDERCOVER outerwear pieces instant grails
For FW23, UNDERCOVER is bringing back the hands in a new form.
These claws are embroidered, rather than printed, and made three-dimensional with beaded applique. It's a statement twist that should make some fans very happy.
No new Nike sneakers for UNDERCOVER this go-round, it seems, but the heads ought to appreciate the self-referential graphic design, at least.
Beyond the extra-detailed hands, FW23 also includes new iterations of UNDERCOVER's signature teddy bear print, for instance, stitched into a sweater for your flexing pleasure.
