UNDERCOVER founder Jun Takahashi is a film buff. The pioneering Japanese designer makes this obvious by littering UNDERCOVER collections with overt film references. It’s often the kinds of famously influential cinema lyrically waxed about by film nerds, like Stanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange, plastered across the Fall/Winter 2019 collection, and Alfred Hitchcock's shower-centric horror Psycho, which peppered Fall/Winter 2022’s jackets and shirts.

But in line with fashion designers of a certain age, including Raf Simons and John Galliano, Jun Takahashi has a particular fixation with David Lynch.

In 2018, when he was midway through watching Lynch’s most famous work, the surreal TV drama Twin Peaks, Takahashi described Lynch’s genius as “next level” and eventually dedicated UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2024 to Twin Peaks. Now he’s following up with a one-off Twin Peaks capsule.

It’s safe to say Takahashi is a big fan. But who can blame him? David Lynch was both a master of mind-bending filmmaking and famously well-dressed.

UNDERCOVER’s second ode to Lynch plays out in two puffer jackets and two sweaters, covered in stills taken from Twin Peaks. The collection, which releases February 7 via the brand’s website, presents a simple yet evocative technique typical of UNDERCOVER’s franchise collaborations. Two quotidian garments — in this case, a bulky puffer jacket and a simple knit sweater — are plastered with a huge image. Here, you have the famous yearbook photo of Laura Palmer, the high schooler whose murder is central to Twin Peaks, and Kyle MacLachlan’s immortal FBI agent Dale Cooper, staring straight-faced.

That’s what makes UNDERCOVER’s film merch so much more (but also not that much more) than ordinary film merch. Sure, the quality of UNDERCOVER’s garments is a level above anything you’d find from a merch stall given that’s all made in Japan of quality materials but it’s really down Takahashi’s eye for a powerful image and his willingness to blow that up to the scale of a billboard.

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