Xenia Telunts just turned five.
Well, Xenia Telunts, the person, is in her twenties but her eponymous brand is still pretty young. Spring/Summer 2023 is the tenth seasonal Xenia Telunts offering to date, in fact, which ain't too shabby for a one-woman act.
SS23 is a landmark for Telunts, not just because it's her most colorful and expansive collection to date, but also because the collection is a sort of physical summation of everything she believes in.
Produced locally by laborers earning a fair wage, with sustainability baked right into the creative process from the ground up, Xenia Telunts SS23 delivers effortless apparel held aloft by a moral backbone. Boom, mission statement.
So, what with all these intelligently-designed chore coats, deliciously chunky knits, and patterned workwear set-ups, why aren't we all wearing Xenia Telunts already?
For one, Telunts' thoughtful craft and size demand a small-scale approach, hence her low-key digital presence.
There's actually a very good chance that you haven't even heard of Telunts at all — her biggest potential crossover moment was a brief partnership with LN-CC that came and went in 2019. Since then, she's been doing it alone, no PR rep or slot on the London Fashion Week calendar.
That's intentional — Telunts knows that if you build it, they will come.
I first stumbled across Telunts' work at one of my favorite stores, Shibuya's WARE-MO-KOU, which began working with the designer in 2018, a year after her label got going.
I imagined how easy life would be if I had a closet full of Telunts' giant coats, boxy jackets, and one-size-fits-all pants made in extremely limited editions, cut from zero-waste patterns, and realized in earthy hues.
"We believe unisex, oversized silhouettes allow longevity," explained Telunts. "Our silhouette has always been wide-leg pants and a boxy oversize fitting jacket."
There was even a handwritten care label that tied each garment to a unique code that could be entered on Telunts' website to order spare parts or request maintenance should anything break down with wear — this is the painstaking, hands-on craft I crave!
Over the ensuing years, Telunts' brand evolved. Some things stayed the same and, as her skill grew, other things changed.
Massive outerwear, for example, was once the definitive Xenia Telunts signature but the designer's Fisherman Sweater has since become the cornerstone of her seasonal collections. It'll be available for SS23 in an ultralightweight, summer-friendly cotton knit.
On the other hand, Telunts' zest for slow growth remains the same as it was a half-decade ago.
"I learnt to be patient," she said. "To grow slowly and organically, even if it means offering smaller collections. Focusing on the product and not being distracted by the speed of the fashion calendar."
"That is not a quick route to commercial success but I hope that it builds the foundation for a brand that can still be relevant in years to come. "
Sustainability is one of the core influences permanently affixed to Telunts' moodboard, accompanied by general concepts (like fair wages for workers) and stylistic influences (mid-century furniture, and brutalist architecture).
The bilingual designer is also deeply inspired by her ethnic roots in Russia, reflected in both the shapes of her garments and the vintage pins she fastens to sweaters and shirts.
"I have always been really amazed by Soviet art and graphic design," Telunts said, who recently hosted a fundraiser to benefit Ukraine's defense against invading Russia.
"The vintage enamel badges offer a great peek into the creativity of people during such a difficult time. I love that a lot of them promote something we really believe in, like protecting the environment, picking up litter, or saving fish."
"And it's important to say, at this moment, that identity belongs to all former Soviet Union countries: it's not a Russian identity alone but a shared, rich, collective cultural identity."
Thoughtful, wearable, easy on the planet — again, I ask, why are we not all wearing Xenia Telunts? And when I say "all," I mean every single one of us.
"I think our collection can be worn by literally anyone," Telunts said. "Aesthetically, it's inclusive and our pieces are both modest and functional, making it easy to wear whoever and wherever you are."
So, get to it, why don't you?
