Tracksuits, Tuxedos, and Trompe L'Œil Trickery: MFW at a Glance
Following New York and London, Milan was next in line to present its designers' SS25 offerings to the world. Next to traditional powerhouses like Prada, Versace, and Bottega Veneta, more left-of-field brands such as Sunnei, Marni, and Moschino sent what they're hoping we'll wear next year down the runways of Italy's fashion capital.
Though Milan's spotlight shone on established houses more so than London's, the veterans here prickled with much of the same passion and motivation as those in New York – as as if they had something to prove. Which, frankly, they did.
Luxury fatigue was and still is a thing, and Creative Directors' clearly picked up on it, unleashing – in response – some of their funnest collections of recent memory: Miuccia and Raf's otherworldly headdresses; Mathieu Blazy's plastic grocery bag-inspired leather goods; Donatella's perfume-bottle-heels; Beate Karlsson's running competition for the deranged.
One thing to transpire from this MFW review – as well as the other fashion month recaps – is that you can very well teach an old dog new tricks. Ironically, it's the younger pups that appear too tethered still to the world around them to fully immerse themselves – and their audience – in a vision.
MFW in Review: Interdisciplinary, Intergenerational
AVAVAV
In collaboration with adidas, Swedish designer Beate Karlsson staged a comedic track-and-field presentation, instilling the German sports giant's signature gear with AVAVAV's bizarre aesthetics.
Bottega Veneta
Sat in animal bean bag chairs, guests at Bottega Veneta got to witness an array of exaggerated suits, experimental leather garments, and deceptive accessories.
Diesel
Diesel was denim-themed, in every sense. Their set design was of fabric waste, to comment on the apparel industry's pollution, and pledge their commitment towards minimizing it.
Gucci
Sabato de Sarno holds a heavy responsibility, and is yet to fully conceive of a believable new universe for Gucci. His approach remains safe and commercial, underscoring the ready in ready to wear.
Jil Sander
The quintessentially minimalist brand that is Jil Sander used boxy silhouettes as canvases for tasteful color- and texture-play.
Marni
Clothes aside, Marni's styling and makeup made for an extra theatrical display of the yet another eccentric collection.
Moschino
Under Adrian Appiolaza, Moschino's designs have kept their sense of humor, but earned on top, perhaps, a more avant-garde flavor compared to its previous, campier one.
Prada
This collection has been noted to be one for the books. A demonstration of boundless creativity, chemistry, and love for what's at stake, the shoes and accessories, in particular, felt at once inventive and Prada to the bone.
SUNNEI
Worn by a cast of senior models, this body of work exclaimed once more that SUNNEI is one of the most refreshing brands to have emerged from Italy's – even the world's – new gen.
Versace
Donatella took it back to the 70s with psychedelic pastel prints, foreshadowing herewith what may be a Spring/Summer'25 of Love.
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