“It’s our ’90s, how we lived the ’90s” explained Sunnei’s Simone Rizzo after his brand’s SS19 show. One of the younger brands on the Milan schedule that’s breathing new life into the city, Sunnei’s attitude, like its aesthetic, is big, bright and boisterous.
Much like Marni, who showed on Saturday, Sunnei’s look isn’t the easiest sell in 2018. It’s lacking in the grit and tough-guy aspirations that basically everyone’s striving towards these days, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing here for casual dressers to sink their teeth (and wallets) into.
Rizzo, and Sunnei co-founder Loris Messina, cut their spring collection loose, and proposed a 21st-century take on the ’90s’ must-have popper pants, alongside billowing cargo pants, baggy anoraks and mismatched patterns aplenty. Extra-large tote bags were slung across the shoulder, while massive skater jeans puddled into equally massive sneakers. The duo also produced womenswear, a first for the brand, with brightly-colored, towering wedge shoes that riffed on another classic from decades back, Onex.
“All the cool girls at our school used to wear Onex, even though they were super uncomfortable” Rizzo explained. “It was a strange phenomenon.”
Highlights for the brand, though, was a seemingly innocuous white tee, with a graphic rendition of an iPhone placed right on the chest. Instead of a screen, though, it sported a mirror. “We love using Italian words, we love the duality” Rizzo explained, adding that Sunnei has always liked to comment on the “digital disruption” that has turned our lives upside down in the past few years. Last season, Sunnei memed Dior’s feminist tees, while the season before, they put Tom Anderson, aka Myspace Tom, on the runway (albeit via another graphic tee).
“Riflettere means to think about something, but also look at the mirror.”