Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows, presentations and events from the SS17 fashion weeks. To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 3 of London Collections: Men SS17. Check out the action from Day 2 here.
J.W.Anderson Was as Weird as Ever
Loewe director and recent A$AP Rocky collaborator J.W.Anderson’s menswear show is, alongside Craig Green, one of the biggest draws of the LCM schedule (especially now that Burberry and Alexander McQueen are currently AWOL). Anderson was in a typically quirky mood, as his gender-vague army strolled around Yeomanry house to a flute soundtrack that was overlaid with commentary from a wildlife program.
You suspect there’s very little reason or meaning to Anderson’s work — it’s more like he’s pulling together as many surreal elements from his wild imagination as humanly possible, while doing everything in his powers to divorce his clothing from what people actually wear. His SS17 onslaught included aprons, steampunk-style goggles, spray-painted linen tunics, flight suits and drooping knitted tops that looked like the wearer, not the garment, had shrunk in the wash. A graphic of ancient Egyptian deity Anubis replaced last season’s glow-in-the-dark rubber snail.
When Anderson showed a bit of restraint there were some very wearable pieces, in his own kooky, surrealist way. Many of his pared-back bombers and topcoats got nods of approval from A$AP Rocky and his crew, who rolled in with an army of frantic street style photographers not far behind.
Christopher Shannon’s Experiments Went Wrong
Christopher Shannon cited a return to everyday functionality with his SS17 collection, which for him, meant denim. Opening with a few clean-looking tracksuit ensembles, Shannon’s SS17 quickly spiraled into the absurd as a seemingly never-ending onslaught of weirdo denim experiments walked down the runway.
There were shredded jeans (which are starting to feel a little played-out already), paneled track-style jeans, some Frankenstein-like triple-waisted pants, three trucker jackets that had been nailed together, denim sleeves worn like extra-high tube socks, and jackets covered in belt loops.
The unnecessary experimentation didn’t end there — many looks featured bizarre polo shirt/tank top hybrids that were reversible from top to bottom. Who wants half of a vest hanging off their waist?
It felt a lot more like a graduate collection than some of the slick, polished aesthetics that many of Shannon’s London contemporaries are now refining.
KTZ Looked To the Stars
KTZ shows are always a spectacle, regardless of what’s actually shown on the runway. True to form, London’s fashion underworld was out in full force for the event, naturally prompting a street style frenzy outside the show space. Inside, KTZ’s looks featured harnesses, zipped-up gimp masks and chains with pill containers — not exactly everyday wear for most people, but this is a brand aimed squarely at subcultural fetishists.
KTZ’s usually larger-than-life branding was toned down somewhat — the brand’s allover prints were inspired by maps of the constellations, according to the show notes. The fetishistic vibes continued with a ton of leather pieces. Some of the brand’s streetwear looks felt disappointingly low key — sweaters with executioners’ hoods sported only a small sliver of graphics.
While so many of the brands on the London schedule show no compromise commercially (at their peril, you suspect), KTZ is one of those joyously whacky brands that you just want to go HAM on every single look. Likewise for the show’s soundtrack, a dreamy-but-restrained electro ensemble that could have easily been a grinding industrial onslaught.
Aitor Throup Put On a Show and Then Some
Aitor Throup was once one of the most talked-about names in London, but put his own label into hibernation, plying his trade for the likes of Umbro, Stone Island and G-Star RAW instead. His return to the LCM schedule saw the most eclectic guest list of the week — The Mighty Boosh comedian Noel Fielding and Serge Pizzorno of indie-rock giants Kasabian were sat alongside London’s streetwear OGs and fashion illuminati.
A self portrait (apparently), Throup’s collection was presented as a theatrical performance in three acts and a prelude.
When the lights went down, a team of masked models reanimated an unconscious puppet, and dragged it around the show space for 10 minutes. The creation changed outfits, wheezed heavily and even made a few loud gunshots. Pretty hard to pay attention to Throup’s clothing amid all the theatrics — it looked like his usual futurist, anatomical workwear, though.
All very cryptic, then, but Throup mercifully provided an explanation in his post-show notes. He’s produced “a collection of trans-seasonal prototypes,” which will be followed by a full collection, to launch in January 2017. The concept pieces from the show/performance will be available to purchase on request at London’s Dover Street Market, from June 14.
- Backstage Photography: Eva Al Desnudo / Highsnobiety.com