Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows, presentations and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 2 of Milan Fashion Week SS17. Check out yesterday’s action here.
Sunnei Was a Breath of Fresh Air
Youthful both in age and design style, Sunnei is a breath of fresh air on the Milan schedule, which is typically dominated by big, old, luxury houses. The brainchild of two young Italians, Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, the label takes its country’s illustrious clothing heritage, but adds a much-needed shot of adrenaline.
Sunnei’s Italian casual classics like double-breasted blazers, silk handkerchiefs and chinos were spotted alongside some especially whacky statement pieces. (Tie-dyed jumpsuits! White corduroy field coats! Sleeveless denim overcoats!)
Alongside those far-out experiments there was plenty of easy pieces to make the buyers happy — especially footwear-wise, thanks to some classy tennis-style low-tops and some experimental-looking trainers. Definitely a label to watch out for in the future. Extra points for playing Sisqo’s “Thong Song” during the show’s finale.
Check out Sunnei’s FW16 collection for more Italian-made dopeness.
Prada Ventured to the Great Outdoors
Prada’s show space might look like the interior of a space craft, but the clothing Miuccia showed for SS17 looked much more like high-end hiking gear than intergalactic futurism. Pretty much all of the house’s pieces looked like they’d been found in a hiking shop. Billowing anoraks, weird sandal-boot hybrids, boonie hats and awkward, clashing colorways really cemented the outdoorsy vibes.
With brogues, coats and luxe canteens (really?) hanging from their vast backpacks, Prada’s models looked like they’d ditched their boring desk jobs to go climb a mountain. Is that some sort of a metaphor for modern living? Knowing Miuccia Prada, there’s probably some overarching message that’s gone completely over my head here. One thing I do know is that a suit jacket styled with carabiners and a climbing belt looks sick.
Prada’s luxe-climbing look was mirrored in the few women’s looks shown, only with more dainty patterns. I have no idea how this is going to resonate with the bankers and Chinese tourist-shoppers that make up the Prada demographic, but purely from a visual standpoint, Prada SS17 was strong.
Moncler Gamme Bleu Also Went Outdoors
Thom Browne might be a grey-suit salesman but his shows are anything but boring. For his latest Gamme Bleu project with Moncler, Browne converted the luxury outerwear brand’s warehouse into a mock boy scout camp — complete with Yogi-bear style instructors.
Browne sure loves a uniform, and after his army of models ditched their sleeping bags, they trouped around the space in all manners of luxed-out boy scout gear. Safari shirts, field jackets and the like were accompanied by some suiting pieces made from glossy tarpaulin, sort of like a wearable picnic blanket. Pretty much every piece was covered in pockets.
After the show, the bear-headed camp leaders posed for selfies with the show’s guests. Including Big Sean! How adorable.
Much like last season, Moncler Gamme Bleu SS17 raised a lot of questions. How much does all of this cost? What’s the point in it? Who wants to look like a boy scout in the year 2016?
Moncler has transformed itself from a ski jacket manufacturer into a bonafide luxury giant by angling itself as a fashion label – it turned over three quarters of a billion in 2015 alone. You suspect all this ridiculous posturing is just a way for the brand to tell the world just how directional it is so it can sell more thousand-dollar ski jackets.
Damir Doma Entered the Matrix
Damir Doma took to an abandoned mansion in the Milanese outskirts to showcase his SS17 collection. The official press release was filled with psuedo-intellectual waffle, but Doma’s men’s and women’s pieces were strong – so no matter. Patchworked, dystopian garments, Morpheus-style sunglasses and the ruined town house made the show feel like something out of The Matrix.
Doma’s dystopian theatrics featured a healthy amount of commercial-ish pieces that buyers for niche concept stores would surely love. Baggy bombers and coats with shredded hems were just the right amount of a disheveled statement to really make sense in the post-YEEZY, post-Vetements fashion landscape.
The show’s women’s looks were especially sick — Doma’s ladies looked like some gloomy, sultry goth queens intent on rebuilding society after a nuclear world war. Or something.
Marcelo Burlon Looked to the Underworld
Marcelo Burlon grew up in Argentina when the country was under the rule of a military dictatorship. Rock music was strictly forbidden. That probably help explains why his County Of Milan label always looks to the underworld for inspiration. That said, rock ‘n’ roll has been a bit of a fad in fashion for a minute.
Burlon’s metal-isms — the gothic lettering and ninja star-inspired symbols — all looked like a bit of a prop, especially when you remember that Vetements did pretty much the same thing six months ago. Speaking of Vetements, one look in particular bore such a strong resemblance to Demna Gvasali and co’s aesthetic that it may even hint at a forthcoming collaboration.
Check out yesterday’s action from Milan here.