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In just a few short years, J.W.Anderson has managed to become of the fashion industry’s defining voices and undoubtedly one of the biggest draws on the London Fashion Week schedule. Between helming his namesake label and churning out a carousel of collections over at Loewe, the designer certainly has his hands full. Perhaps that’s why he opted for a more pared-back approach this season, avoiding the unpredictability of his past, where everything from macrame leggings to ruched leather boob tubes (for men) have been served up.

This season wasn’t sculptural or futurist, but resolutely feminine and simple. There are evident nods to decades past, from shimmery disco details to ear cuffs that scream Baroque opulence to milky white dresses with minimal ruffles that Marie Antoinette would have readily swapped her chemise à la reine (that’s a style of gauzy, unstructured dress) for. Anderson avoids pastiche by keeping his references simple and the collection manages to flow like a well-structured essay.

Across the board, looks are sleek and exacted in familiar materials like fur, nylon, leather and silk. There’s no unruly experimentation. Texture, however, is meticulously focused. On dropped-waist skirts, you’ll find ostrich feather inserts, and patchwork dresses are exacted with thoughtful composition and even the sandals are embroidered with painstaking detail.

Maybe this is J.W.Anderson maturing, but it marks a departure from his signature randomness, while still managing to expand our notions of beauty.

For more LFW coverage, check out our report from Marta Jakubowski’s FW17 collection.

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