Here's How You Make the Fanciest Converse of All Time (EXCLUSIVE)
Converse First String has lofty ambitions. Its aim is to create the fanciest Converse shoes ever. However, it must first confront the quintessential Converse sneaker.
The Chuck Taylor isn’t merely Converse’s hallmark product, it is quite possibly the most famous sneaker ever created. Since it debuted way back in 1917, it’s maintained its relevance by being both affordable and approachable. And, as the everyman sneaker, the Chuck Taylor has has long been the antithesis of a luxury shoe. But Converse First String aims to change that.
“Working on the Chuck Taylor is a blessing and a curse because you want to treat the product with so much respect,” says Alex Restivo, footwear and apparel product director at Converse. “You can create an amazing version of it, but you don't want to lose the integrity and the nostalgia. It’s our responsibility to deliver the best version of the Chuck Taylor.”
Restivo began by diving into the archives. Converse has tweaked the Chuck Taylor innumerable times over the past 100 years and the design team wanted to uncover some long-forgotten ideas. Models from the 1950s proved especially inspiring, what with their oversized license plates on the heel, eyelets that dip down into foxing tape, and lining that pokes out above the shoe’s collar.
First String’s extensive meddling manifests as a slightly chunked-up frame, wider shape, and squared-off toe box. The ensuing sneaker is still a Chuck Taylor but, like a vintage car kitted with a new engine, you can only see the most obvious upgrades when you look beneath the hood.
The First String Chuck features a special Vibram sole made of a temperature-regulating “Fire & Ice” compound that regulates the temperature of the foot on both extremely cold and extremely warm surfaces, tech rarely utilized in the lifestyle market. And directly above, proof that Nike ownership affords Converse some major perks: Converse First String’s Chuck Taylor features a midsole infused with Nike Air technology, a chunky Air bubble visible when the insole is slipped out.
As Restivo puts it, “It’s almost like a water bed for your foot.” Or, you could say that this Chuck is essentially an Air Max in disguise.
First String’s first couple drops focused solely on the Chuck Taylor and were only released in select quality boutiques like HAVEN in Canada or Slam Jam in Italy. The classic shoe is reimagined as a $250 indulgence with uppers made of knitted Japanese fabric, soft pebbled leather, and leopard-printed pony hair sourced from Italy. That’s nearly $200 more than ordinary Chucks and $160 more than the Chuck 70, Converse’s previous style of higher-end Chuck.
First String’s decision to kick off with a single, subtly refined shoe is a reflection of its legacy. The imprint began in 2009, running for around half a decade before declining into dormancy as Converse normalized the Chuck 70 and its mainline fare began expanding. It leveraged buzzy collaborations with American production to create funky, experimental versions of Converse’s best-known silhouettes. This second, modern chapter evolves that concept.
“First String, when it was first initiated, was more experimental, working with a lot of different silhouettes, different collaborators, and pushing the boundaries. It was amazing,” says Restivo. “The future of First String is the brand taking some of the ownership back and saying we have the most iconic models within the footwear space, and we're going to execute them in an extremely premium way.” The result, he says, is “the ultimate product,” replete with “fine details,” and the world’s “most premium material vendors.”
This is a comparatively design-forward approach compared to competitors, such as adidas’ Italian-made sub-label that offers $800 sneakers or Vans' OTW line, with its focus on luxury skate shoes and collaborations. In fact, it’s an approach more aligned with Converse Japan.
In Japan, Converse is owned not by Nike but by trading company ITOCHU Corporation and upscale retro revivals are de rigeur. Converse Japan’s popular Converse Addict line has long been the Rolls-Royce of Chuck Taylors, fitted with Vibram soles, thick uppers, cushy insoles, and period-correct detailing borrowed from decades-old Converse shapes before Converse America ever offered anything similar.
An equivalent upmarket offering has been a long time coming for Converse America, though Converse First String is hardly in a rush. It has a 117-year heritage at its fingertips to rediscover, remake, and remaster.
“In future seasons, you're going to see us pushing the boundaries even further in terms of the craftsmanship and the detail that goes into the materials,” says Restivo. “This is the appetizer before we get to the main course.”
Highsnobiety has affiliate marketing partnerships, which means we may receive a commission from your purchase. Want to shop the products our editors actually love? Visit the HS Style Guide for recs on all things fashion, footwear, and beauty.
