Designer: Growing Pains, the brand helmed by Tokyo's electro empress Mademoiselle Yulia.

Location: Tokyo, Japan

Season: Fall/Winter 2017

Key Pieces: The bright yellow puffer jacket featuring some well-placed bag decorative fasteners (slide #3), another standout puffer in a dusty red velvet number (slide #12), and those glittery leather gloves are sublime (slide #13).

Editor’s Notes: There’s a battlefield of diverse aesthetic references in the brand’s latest feat – from obvious femme-military aesthetics, to fetish-wear, to 1940s post-war femininity, to a distinctive nurse uniform – all realized in a palette that ranges from khaki and brown to pink and red. It might be an acidic cocktail of visual codes, but Mademoiselle Yulia’s recurring "nurse" motif reminds us to swallow our medicine and acknowledge that Japan’s new wave is deft at repackaging and remixing trends with pure precision.

For more Tokyo Fashion Week coverage, check out our latest street style report.

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