London born-and-bred designer Nasir Mazhar stripped the color, bombast and audacious branding that defined previous seasons from his Spring/Summer 2016 line, which was shown as part of the London Collections: Men fashion extravaganza.

In the wake of the passing of his father, London born-and-bred designer Nasir Mazhar stripped the color, bombast and audacious branding that defined previous seasons from his Spring/Summer 2016 line. Having made waves on the international scene with his luxury take on streetwear that cites influences from London's diverse history of underground music, Mazhar returned to his hometown with a more brooding, spartan vision.

"In many ways it's an end of what we do," the designer said. "I feel like a new chapter is about to begin, and this was us saying 'this is our look, these are our core products, this is what we do.' It's been a difficult period". Indeed, the year's turbulent events meant that Mazhar's womenswear presentation was cancelled and instead incorporated into the season's menswear show; displaying the designer's entire vision in one go.

Nasir's staple tracksuits, "Bully" caps and backpacks were taken back to basics and presented in all black, with cybergoth-style mesh vests, skin-hugging tops and bared flesh that, combined with the bass-heavy grime and garage cuts from the likes of Preditah and Spooky, shone a menacingly sexual light on his troupe of burly boys and Amazonian girls.

Elsewhere, camo patterns (black, of course) accompanied the usual onslaught of nylon sportswear pieces, alongside a first ever foray into footwear, with a set of rugged, heavily branded trainers replacing the designer's beloved Nike Air Max sneakers.

Mazhar has always proudly committed to castings that reflect London's multicultural melting pot, and this season was no exception as both genders spanned a diverse range of ethnicities. Despite the (relatively, at least) pared back aesthetic and mournful lack of color, the collection proved that much like Shayne Oliver's Hood By Air, the church of Nasir Mazhar is as a party that celebrates diversity in the face of the fashion industry's skinny white stereotypes.

Photography: Adam Katz Sinding for Highsnobiety

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