Chitose Abe and her revered brand, sacai, hit the runway during Paris Fashion Week to present its men’s Spring/Summer 2019, and women’s pre-Spring 2019 collections.
Having made conscious effort to challenge what is complete, sacai’s collection un-zipped finished structures and familiar silhouettes to ultimately transform each piece into an expression of freedom. As is true to the style of Chitose Abe, hybrid pieces were created to essentially defy the boundaries of the season -- narratives of a season were thus transported to the next, as opposed to being contained by it. Most notably, sacai made a point of taking Pendleton’s otherwise heavy South West American blankets and re-contextualizing them to be a lighter alternative for spring.
Nothing appears to adhere to its original form, as the application of multiple, contrasting fabric layers distorted the common build of many silhouettes. Calling on the influences of sport and military and combining it with otherwise essentialist cuts, sacai’s latest collection is a cross-pollenation of influences. Asymmetric, billowing outerwear really shined throughout, highlighted by fantastical fabric detailing and the sportier tailoring often associated to much of Abe’s earlier pursuits under the sacai moniker. Denim was also de-constructed and re-constructed with distinct menswear patterning and the aforementioned military influence. Dr Woo’s tattoo art also informed the embroidery of a number of pieces.
And amongst this, the presentation showed off two new Nike hybrid sneakers; the LDV/Daybreak and Blazer/Dunk, said to debut January 2019. Stay locked to Highsnobiety for more information on that as we have it.
For more from Paris Fashion Week, be sure to check out AMI’s seriously good show right here.