You wouldn't know it from the young designer's evocative runway shows, but Shinya Kozuka's clothing is really quite approachable. Though he specializes in intellectual exaggerations of the ordinary, sometimes quite literally blowing up garment conventional into figure-swallowing forms, the end results are typically quite wearable. Well, at least for dressers confident enough to explore his world on their terms.

Kozuka's Breakfast Coat, a superlative outerwear piece from his excellent Fall/Winter 2025 collection, is as great a gateway garment as anything else.

This is a plainly cool short coat cut from what Kozuka calls "widest wale corduroy," which lives up to its name with ridges so deep that you could use them to funnel syrup to pancakes.

Its lined with a thick fleece that's also indicative of the '70s-style sherpa-trucker jackets that inspired its design.

But Kozuka, as always, does his reference point one (or three) better.

With its name suggesting fuzzy memories of break-of-dawn diners in middle-of-nowhere America, the Breakfast Coat is not only dramatically full but entirely reversible, allowing the wearer to flip out the fleece and wear it with the corduroy on the collar.

It's not as dramatic a touch as some of Kozuka's other statement pieces, which are sometimes splashed with paint or printed with illustrative text, but this duality give the Breakfast Coat additional purpose. And, especially in high-contrast blue and white, it just looks so obviously cool.

Kozuka's oeuvre flips garments for the laborer and draughtsman, ending up as a kind of artsy workwear that's got the grounding of useful clothes and the trappings of brainy bookishness.

Tremendous sweaters, full-figured shirting, boxy Dickies work shirts, and wool farmers jackets interrupted by snatches of jacquard-woven quotations are all part of Kozuka's process, and though you could generalize it all as "oversized workwear," you'd really be missing the beauty in its reframing of the familiar.

It doesn't take a philosophy degree to appreciate a wide sweater stitched with a tasty breakfast.

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