We’ve already brought you one fully stacked edition of Under The Radar this month. However, with Berlin Fashion Week currently underway, we’re taking the opportunity to bring you an extra installment of exciting new names, all of which we unearthed while scouring the booths at streetwear tradeshow SEEK.
Tradeshows can be an exhausting affair, packed as they are full of brands, people and product, but they’re also a great place to discover rising new talent. Some of the brands seen below have been in existence as little as one year, but given the strength of what we’ve seen so far, we’d say they’re well worth keeping an eye on.
And, as ever, don’t forget where you heard about them first…
Streetwear brands making reference to the occult often feels like an immature and unoriginal attempt at appearing edgy, but that’s not at all the case with Heresy. This small South London-based imprint has made it the very conceptual core of their brand, with each fresh collection based around different aspects of obscure, long-forgotten folklore.
While the understated graphic numbers and clean wardrobe staples may appear simplistic at a glance, the remarkably high quality of the fabrics used reveals just how much thought has really gone into each piece’s design. Coupled with a distinct DIY/punk air to the brand’s marketing (lookbooks printed as Xeroxed fanzines etc.), and it becomes clear that these guys are doing that low-key kind of anti-fashion very well indeed.
Fresh on the scene from the Netherlands (and not to be confused with the legendary street artist of the same name), comes Futura.
Designed and run by two young Dutchmen named Anne and Tom, this upstart fashion label is doing some very interesting things with denim indeed. While their early work revolved around pieces of crisply stitched outerwear (with some very striking magenta biker jackets appearing in their SS16 collection), their forthcoming fall/winter offerings have taken an even bolder step forward.
Inspired by the world of racecar driving and motorsports, the brand’s latest designs apply an intense cut ‘n’ sew patchwork effect to everything from shirting to full-length overalls. Having just exhibited at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Amsterdam, theirs is a car that’s speeding ahead right now.
As we all know, South Korea has absolutely NO shortage of interesting, innovative fashion labels (there must be something in the water out there). Among them is Document: a young brand proving beyond all doubt that simple execution can be very stylish indeed when placed in skilled hands.
Working almost exclusively in tonal shades of indigo (although a few contrasting items are produced each season to mix things up), Document works with high-quality denim, linen, wool, suede and cotton to create bold, fashionably cut pieces that, while great in their own right, look even better when paired with each other. Expertly tailored and packed full of well-thought out details (their reversible trench coats are to die for), every piece looks and feels like something you’d want to keep for a lifetime.
Although the name would suggest Airbag Craftworks is primarily a luggage brand, that is actually just one facet of what makes this boutique German label so special. While the brand’s range of backpacks, messenger bags, totes and record bags is indeed exceptional — crafted using innovative materials and finished to the very highest standard — they also produce clothing, accessories, bespoke prints and even have their own record label.
Rather than opting for classic seasonal collections, Airbag Craftworks seem to hone in on producing just a handful of products really, really well. This runs a bewildering gamut from T-shirts (which are made from super luxurious heavyweight cotton), to scarves, jackets and even a pair of sheepskin slippers!
What unites them all, however, is the quality of the craftsmanship, which is top grade right across the board.
We’re big fans of trying new things at Highsnobiety. We’re also big fans of being cosy. So, when we came across premium pajama brand Bananatime we were more than intrigued.
While Bananatime’s luxuriant unisex nightwear is naturally well suited to time spent maxin’ and relaxin’ in the comfort of your bedroom, the brand are keen to stress that it is just as at home out in the real world, worn as lightweight billowy daywear in the warm summer months.
When dressed up with more outdoor appropriate items like sweaters or a coat, these silky delicates take on a whole new character entirely, and have the potential to be statement pieces in their own right. Not something you can often say about your PJs…
Following in the patchwork footsteps of Japanese cult favourites like Needles or a certified master like Junya Watanabe, Demo Division is a brand that appreciates the beauty of deconstruction.
Currently based out of Malta (how’s that for an obscure fashion hotspot?), Demo Division’s creative lean involves re-working military and workwear staples into collage-like works of wearable tapestry. Sadly, with no webshop, tracking down the items for purchase isn’t entirely straightforward, but with the skilful needlework on show here, we hope to see them gaining a much wider presence in the years to come…
For more undiscovered talent, check out the rest of our Under the Radar series.