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Designer: Haider Ackermann

Location: Paris, France

Season: Spring/Summer 2018

Key Pieces: Tapered auburn trousers, regatta stripe suits, and the striped silk jumpsuit that’s equal parts white-collar prisoner and dress-code defying corporate raider.

Editor’s Notes: Haider Ackermann, cover star of Highsnobiety magazine issue 13 and creative director of Berluti, is known for clothing that demonstrates a globally-informed sense of elegance and upscale louche appeal. These are the types of garms worn by highly successful men with very ambiguous sources of income, but seemingly possess an endless amount of it.

Taking over the ballroom of Paris’s InterContinental Hotel, the setting for Ackermann’s show was as grand as the clothes we expected to see. Set to a syncopated drum beat, models walked the show in striped looks ranging from jumpsuits to relaxed tailoring that toed the line between nautical sensibilities and wear-to-work gear for the type of man who is constantly out of office, probably maintaining a yacht somewhere.

These were elevated leisure clothes for the rakish members of the ruling class, mixing a bevy of predominantly black and white clothes with slight pops of auburn, cream, seafoam green and lavender. Some pieces eschewed stripes for tastefully executed all-over polka dots. The sartorial stuffiness of grid checks were tempered with loose trouser silhouettes and polka dot scarves. Silk jumpsuits turned the male romper trend on its head, signifying a bold, confident approach to dressing, instead of the lad-like connotations of “cracking open a cold one with the boys.”

For Ackermann, the collection came off a bit subdued in comparison to his brighter, pop art-esque offerings for his last spring collection, but the muted attitude seemed like a logical next step after his pared-down Fall/Winter 2017 collection.

For more SS18 fashion week coverage, check out Balenciaga’s latest collection.

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  • Photograp: Eva Al Desnudo / Highsnobiety.com
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