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Stockholm-based Acne Studios' FW19 collection was a celebration of those who fall outside of convention. "I wanted to imagine our own countercultures, which then morph together, with their own ways of living and surviving,” Acne creative director and co-founder Jonny Johansson told journalists backstage after the brand's runway show in Paris.
Furthering the design philosophy of SS19, which challenged the wearer with experimental garments, this collection pulled in references from the outliers of the world, be they academics, bohemians, or anarchists, and amassed them together. The result was a surprising collection of knits, cashmere, tailoring, ponchos, and hiking boots. Imagine representatives of various subcultures coming together to exchange their favorite garments and then heading out for a party.
The first looks, a series of cowhide coats and pants, were dyed orange and adorned with leather patches and side zips to flare the silhouette, something akin to the look associated with another outlier figure: the rock star. This was followed by more subdued garments: moss green and beige cardigans, frayed ponchos, leather pants, and long, oversized scarves that trailed to the floor with long tentacle-like strands still light enough to flow elegantly behind in the air.
"I'm not doing sportswear, even though there were a few elements of sports in terms of prints, which are transferred onto more classic textures and fabrics. That for me is as sporty as it gets," Johansson explained.
Overall, Acne Studios' FW19 collection opted for brains over brawn, appealing to customers who want their clothes intellectual, complicated, and disparate.
Next up from Paris, Valentino partnered up with UNDERCOVER on a streetwear-inspired FW19 collection.